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(a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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Five Easy Pieces 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Adam Grosowsky, 1992, FFA unknown
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Nov 12, 2013

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The crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Five Easy Pieces is a worthwhile adventure on mostly good rock. With four pitches at 5.12 or harder, it's no gimme, but is generally well protected and is characterized by excellent moves on mostly impeccable rock. It's worth noting that this route has a lot of drilled holds, (like many routes at Smith) but is super fun to climb anyway.

Pitch 1: 13 bolts. Climb the heavily chalked and popular sport pitch. Instead of stopping where the chalk ends, climb past anchor onto a friable slab and take it to a different anchor at a great ledge. 5.12a

Pitch 2: 14 bolts. The crux. Step left on the ledge and make thin, but generally easy moves up the slab above. Increasingly difficult sequences interspersed with good rests end in a wild sequence on an overhanging shield of perfect rock. After clipping the intermediate anchor, commit to the funky crux above. (sadly on the worst rock on the pitch) A yellow-purple TCU sized piece would be handy for dogging this pitch. If rappelling, descend here. 5.13a

Pitch 3: Watts says 9 bolts. We found more. 10? It's easy to back clean higher and you'd be psyched to have some long runners on many of the bolts. Climb directly up off the belay and get established underneath a small overhang. A crux move getting over the bulge spits you out on a thin slab on beautiful rock. Traverse left into the obvious weakness. (scary for the follower) Just as the moves ease, the rock turns to total crap for 10' until you get established in the (bolted) hand crack which has surprisingly good rock. Follow this to an anchor. (Marginal. 5 historical 1/4 inch bolts) 5.12a

Pitch 4: 4 bolts. A short pitch. Watts says it's not any good, but despite a little choss at the start, it's good rock and fun to climb. Follow the bolts up and left to a large ledge. 5.10

Pitch 5: 7 bolts. If this were on the ground, it would get lapped constantly. There's nothing else at Smith like it. Steep, bouldery moves off the ledge lead to a thin crux moving through obviously drilled pockets. As the holds improve, the angle kicks even further back for a couple more bolts of steep, athletic movement and wild positions.

Walk down Misery Ridge Trail.

Location 

3-4 switchbacks up the Misery Ridge Trail. Picnic Lunch Wall, right side.

Protection 

14 draws.


Photos of Five Easy Pieces Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The short 5.10 pitch.
The short 5.10 pitch.

Comments on Five Easy Pieces Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2014

Pitch 2 is indeed amazing.
By Jon Rhoderick
Feb 8, 2016

Couple thoughts so far, I've tried everything but the 3rd pitch so far

You can make it off the P2 belay ledge with a 70. The top of pitch 2 is the only hanging belay, the one for the last pitch is pretty nice. I heard that the last pitch is really hard, but it really isn't, and you have plenty of space to relax below it so trying it several times if you were trying to send the whole thing isn't out of the question. However, falling on the 12a pitches would really throw a wrench in your day.

The second pitch is pretty incredible, and would be one of the more popular 13a's in the park if it was at ground level. For me the trickiest move comes low down on the route with a very balancy and stretchy slab move. When the angle kicks back you make use of an arete, and nice rests before an amazing sequence on some gastons to pockets small and big. I thought the rock pulling the roof wasn't too bad, there are several options to do those moves but will probably be the toughest section of the whole route. You really can't break the pitch into two pitches if you want to go to the top, you would be pulling the roof right above the anchor, which really is just 2 bolts with regular hangers about 2.5 feet apart from each other (12c to here). Aiding those moves sucks because the gear is right in your face and could pop, offsets HIGHLY recommended (0/1 size in particular, then bring a metolius 2 & 3).

70M lets you TR the 2nd pitch and rap off the ledge, 60M probably wouldn't cut it for either of those tasks, and it looks like a 70M could rap the whole route.
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Feb 24, 2016

Finally tried this with Graham Zimmerman yesterday.

13a pitch was definitely really good and would be popular if it was on the ground. Felt reasonable for the grade. Some fixed QD's right now. Be nice if the anchor was moved up a right a bit so it is easier to stand on the small stance.

Pitch 3, the 12- is a bit funky and thought the bolts after the roof could get re worked a bit to make it safer for both the leader and follower. Was surprised at the lengths of the runout on the easy hand crack. It is definitely not that bad but more runout than I expected. A couple hand sized pieces would help. The anchor on top of this pitch should be replaced. I opted to clip the first bolt on the next pitch and then incorporated that bolt into the anchor.

Pitch 5 feels forced and is for sure chipped/drilled. Found it to be a bit easier than it looked though. Straightforward cranking.

We thought we'd try and rap the route but given the location of the anchor on top of P3 it would be a serious pain in the ass and a 70m probably wouldn't make it. If a rap anchor was installed on the big ledge arete feature 25ft below the current anchor it would be possible to rap and then would be straightforward.

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