|Type:||Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|FA:||Adam Grosowsky, 1992, FFA unknown|
|Submitted By:||Max Tepfer on Nov 12, 2013|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Five Easy Pieces||Add Comment|
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From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2014
|Pitch 2 is indeed amazing.|
By Jon Rhoderick
13 hours ago
Couple thoughts so far, I've tried everything but the 3rd pitch so far
You can make it off the P2 belay ledge with a 70. The top of pitch 2 is the only hanging belay, the one for the last pitch is pretty nice. I heard that the last pitch is really hard, but it really isn't, and you have plenty of space to relax below it so trying it several times if you were trying to send the whole thing isn't out of the question. However, falling on the 12a pitches would really throw a wrench in your day.
The second pitch is pretty incredible, and would be one of the more popular 13a's in the park if it was at ground level. For me the trickiest move comes low down on the route with a very balancy and stretchy slab move. When the angle kicks back you make use of an arete, and nice rests before an amazing sequence on some gastons to pockets small and big. I thought the rock pulling the roof wasn't too bad, there are several options to do those moves but will probably be the toughest section of the whole route. You really can't break the pitch into two pitches if you want to go to the top, you would be pulling the roof right above the anchor, which really is just 2 bolts with regular hangers about 2.5 feet apart from each other (12c to here). Aiding those moves sucks because the gear is right in your face and could pop, offsets HIGHLY recommended (0/1 size in particular, then bring a metolius 2 & 3).
70M lets you TR the 2nd pitch and rap off the ledge, 60M probably wouldn't cut it for either of those tasks, and it looks like a 70M could rap the whole route.