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Goldrush Area
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Americana Arete 
Five Card Draw 
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Five Card Draw 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rex Wolters? bolts - Clint Cook?
Season: Summer & Early Fall
Page Views: 1,638
Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009
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Description 

This climb is on large slab right of Gold Rush ice climb. It is immediately left of Silver Stage.

3 pitches.


Protection 

12 draws. Two 60 meter ropes. Helmets would be a good idea as a party on Silver Stage could kick rock onto this climb.



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By Clint Cook
Aug 6, 2009

Hey Guys,

I put this up a couple years ago, it still needs a couple bolts on the 1st pitch to do it like I wanted, Eurostyle. 4 30m raps. I thought it was 5.7 and the one on the right was 5.8. Didn't mean to sandbag. I called it the 14 Carat Mind, but Pancho and Lefty is great. One of my all-time favorite songs. Glad to hear someone else has climbed it. I'll get over and finish the job, sorry.

Cheers, Clint Cook

By Lee Frazer
Aug 13, 2009

Yes, great song (I'm a Townes Van Zandt fan myself). The guys in Silverton consider this a 5.9 and I could see that. Though most of it felt 5.7-5.8, there's a short section near the top of the first pitch that could go 9.

By Lee Frazer
Sep 2, 2009

Thanks Rex. Will make the change! The .11 you put up looks fun.

By Clint Cook
Sep 27, 2009

Hey Guys,

I thought Five Card Draw followed the protectable crack features which the sport line crosses a couple times. I climbed that a couple times and thought the better climb was on the slabs surrounding the features. I did not mean to retrobolt anything. I thought it seemed like an independent line.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Sep 28, 2009

Clint, I think it is a great line and you did a good job bolting it. I guess it's hard to tell what the 'line' is on that wall, it's all really climbable. The Petzl stainless bolts you used are bomber, thanks for spending the extra $$ to ensure a safe long lasting route.

By Lee Frazer
Sep 29, 2009

I agree. The retro-bolting on Five Cart Draw was well done, Clint. It's a fun climb, and made all the more fun w/ the safe bolting.

By ozman
From: CO / NM
Sep 18, 2011

Good route. Much cleaner than Eureka Pillar. This would have some spicy moves for 5.7; I'd grade those moves at 5.9 as well. I hate slabs though. I'd leave the doubles at home. Easy 30m raps with a single 60m rope. You would still have to make 2 raps with doubles, so saving one single rap is not worth dragging another rope up there. Not as dirty as everyone says. However, with any alpine-like climb, be a good steward and help clean the route. Car to car took us 2 hours. Did this the same morning as Hard Rock Miner on the Eureka Pillar. Nice bolt job.