Five and Dime 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Barry Bates and co, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006 |
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Rick Cashner free-soling "Five and Dime".
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.
Location From the left side of the wall, this is the fifth line. Locate the obvious crack line with a pod-like feature midway. The start is slightly bouldery along some knobs up to a ledge twenty feet from the ground.
Protection Nuts and cams from small fingers (Green alien) to #3 Camalot. Single rack should suffice.
BETA PHOTO: Five & Dime starts on the knobby face at bottom le...
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Pulling through the fingers/ring locks section wit...
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BETA PHOTO: Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.
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| Comments on Five and Dime |
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 6, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| One of the best. Face to gently overhanging crack, opening from fingers to cups. The business section is mostly thin hands/rings so rack accordingly. I had doubles in .75 and 2 camalots and was happy to have them. |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2007
| It'd be tough to squeeze more sustained difficulty into the .10d rating. This climb makes you earn it. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 24, 2008
| I'll second that opinion; Five and Dime is every bit the grade. People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 13, 2009
| Yes, Five and Dime is definitive 5.10d. Finger Lickin' is also. But you should try to lead Mark Of Art.
On a different note, Barry Bates' climbs are the best! Open the Don Reid guide to the first assent section and look for his name. Then head out and do 'em! You will not become weak on a steady diet of Barry Bates climbs. |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
| In the Sierra Club mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10d thin cracks were; Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five and Dime, and Leaning Meany. |
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c PG13
| Very fun route, but a hard lead! |
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