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 ADVANCED
Five and Dime Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bijou S 
Chump Change T 
Copper Penny T 
Five and Dime T 
Inner Reaches T 
Keystone Corner T 
Mockery S 
Nickel Bag S 
Ride the Lightning T,S 
Whack and Dangle T 

Five and Dime 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Barry Bates and co, 1971
Page Views: 4,678
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Rick Cashner free-soling "Five and Dime".
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Description 

Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.

Location 

From the left side of the wall, this is the fifth line. Locate the obvious crack line with a pod-like feature midway. The start is slightly bouldery along some knobs up to a ledge twenty feet from the ground.

Protection 

Nuts and cams from small fingers (Green alien) to #3 Camalot. Single rack should suffice.


Photos of Five and Dime Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the fingers/ring locks section with good hand-jams in sight...
Pulling through the fingers/ring locks section wit...
Five & Dime starts on the knobby face at bottom left and climbs the splitter on the right. Copper Penny is the corner/flake just to the left.
BETA PHOTO: Five & Dime starts on the knobby face at bottom le...
Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.
BETA PHOTO: Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.

Comments on Five and Dime Add Comment
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 6, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

One of the best. Face to gently overhanging crack, opening from fingers to cups. The business section is mostly thin hands/rings so rack accordingly. I had doubles in .75 and 2 camalots and was happy to have them.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2007

It'd be tough to squeeze more sustained difficulty into the .10d rating. This climb makes you earn it.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 24, 2008

I'll second that opinion; Five and Dime is every bit the grade. People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier.
By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 13, 2009

Yes, Five and Dime is definitive 5.10d. Finger Lickin' is also. But you should try to lead Mark Of Art.
On a different note, Barry Bates' climbs are the best! Open the Don Reid guide to the first assent section and look for his name. Then head out and do 'em! You will not become weak on a steady diet of Barry Bates climbs.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

In the Sierra Club mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10d thin cracks were; Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five and Dime, and Leaning Meany.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Very fun route, but a hard lead!