Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fitschen's Folly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Fitschen 1961
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Nov 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
TR attack

Description 

Thin, sustained, and poorly protected. A good intro to technical face climbing.


Location 

The face to the right of Boston. If you are already top-roping in the area, this one is not to be missed.

Scramble down the Uberfall Descent to the left after you're done.


Protection 

Although this was originally led, this is probably better done as a TR. There is not much protection. Trees and gear and long slings are necessary for a toprope anchor.



Comments on Fitschen's Folly Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

We set the primary anchor on Boston, then walked over on rapel and slung the small tree directly above the route. Just make sure the sling is as low as you can get it to avoid damaging the tree.

Route is a lot of fun, comparable to the few 5.10 adirondack face climbs I've done. It's probably on grade for what I expect in a gunks 5.8 climb.

By rogerbenton
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 25, 2012

Sounds about right. 5.8 at the Gunks and 5.10 everywhere else. Fun little game they play with the ratings.