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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
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69 
Apoplexy 
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Boston 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
CC Route 
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Clover 
Coronary 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The 
Eyebrow 
Eyesore 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Harvard 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Horseman 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Ken's Crack 
Keyhole 
Laurel 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nosedive 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Phoebe 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Sonja 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stupid Crack 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Sudoriferous 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

Fitschen's Folly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Fitschen 1961
Page Views: 834
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Nov 2, 2009
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Description 

Thin, sustained, and poorly protected. A good intro to technical face climbing.


Location 

The face to the right of Boston. If you are already top-roping in the area, this one is not to be missed.

Scramble down the Uberfall Descent to the left after you're done.


Protection 

Although this was originally led, this is probably better done as a TR. There is not much protection. Trees and gear and long slings are necessary for a toprope anchor.



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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X

We set the primary anchor on Boston, then walked over on rapel and slung the small tree directly above the route. Just make sure the sling is as low as you can get it to avoid damaging the tree.

Route is a lot of fun, comparable to the few 5.10 adirondack face climbs I've done. It's probably on grade for what I expect in a gunks 5.8 climb.

By rogerbenton
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X

TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 25, 2012

Sounds about right. 5.8 at the Gunks and 5.10 everywhere else. Fun little game they play with the ratings.