The route starts on the far right side of the cliff at a lone, large pine tree. Cool climbing on good laybacks and edges get you past three bolts. Reach a horizontal crack and place gear. Layback up a thin flake and begin a series of hard technical moves past three more bolts to reach the anchor. Very good route with excellent moves.
Six clips, a yellow Alien and purple Camalot will get you to a two bolt anchor.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
This route is pretty stiff, and would be a really tough OS. I found that it was slick and dusty, so hard to hold onto, but mosly solid and not crumbly like some other area routes. The layback flake is quite thin and the best holds are not obvious. At the end of the crux sequence the "jug" is just out of reach for a guy my height (5'10") and I suspect that there is a strong dividing line for difficulty vs. height on this one. Also, being light probably helps, as some of the holds are viciously small for the power you have to put on them.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Feb 19, 2011
This climb is a lot better than it looks from the ground. We used a #1 Camalot in the horizontal.... Though if you get here and you have no cams, I think it wouldn't be too ballsy to do without the piece. Hard and sequential.