Nice fist jamming in a clean splitter. Would rate more stars if longer. Sunny.
Located about 50' below and 100' to the right of the start of Run For Your Life.
Starts as hands the quickly moves to cups, fists and even OW for the last few feet. The difficulties last for about 30', then hang a left and scramble up about 20' to the top of the pillar and find an anchor. Make sure the rope runs through the crack to provide directional protection for the 2nd.
Descent: scramble off to the north.
We did it with one blue Camalot and one #4 Friend but it would be preferable to have a 2nd #4 or a 3.5 Camalot.
By namascar Nov 8, 2004 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
Great route, one of the purest cracks in Josh. One has to pay attention with the #4 Camalots. It is easy to place them, walk them and it may lead to multi hour recovery operations. I saw a #4 jammed once and tried to remove it, without luck. Then this weekend, it happened to us. This time, we put more time and effort till we got the dawn piece out. Don't let this embarrassing situation happened to you.
No, I agree. This is one of the most "splitter" cracks the park has to offer; you can talk to someone on the other side of the formation through the crack. It may be short but that doesn't change the fact that this crack is different from most of the cracks in Josh. I invite anyone who disagrees to just slot a jam at the the base of the route and feel the difference.
this is worth the hike if you are in the area. though short, a nice clean crack that required all kinds of crack techniques.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 9, 2006 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
Great hands and fists. Nice route on nice rock. Short, but worth putting on the 'to do' list.
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Feb 16, 2007 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
Don't know about the "hang a left and scramble to top of pillar to find a belay" bit. I belayed where the crack goes horizontal..the walk off is just a few feet right of this and the climbing above (to the top of the pillar) is trivial and short 5-easy slab. Belay where the crack goes horiz takes from 3.5 to 4 camalot. Did this with one 3 camalot, ended up pushing it a ways, ideally take two of 'em. Good rack would be doubles in 3, 3.5, 4 camalot (this would include the belay pieces).
Everyone says its short and it is... but worth going back to climb and working it. It would be 4 stars if it were twice as long.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Nov 30, 2009 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
Did it with a #2 off the ground, 1 #3 and 2 #4's. Short but sweet, crux is at the top where crack is widest and steepest.
By A. Wolaver From: Golden, CO Nov 26, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a
Really a great splitter. I wouldn't really consider it an offwidth. Also, come on folks, lets not get to comfortable on the cush J-Tree approaches. The approach is probably less than a half mile with about 30 feet of elevation gain.
a fun and physical 40 feet. Even with my big paws I wasn't getting the tightest fist jams at the top, more like elbow-locks. 2 #4 camalots highly recommended. Easy belay anchor can be made by slinging a huge chickenhead on the low angle slab