Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Ginger Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All You Can Eat T 
Blade Runner (AKA The Ginger ArĂȘte) T 
Cayenne corners T 
Fist or Flips T 
Ginger Cracks T 
Power Failure T,S 
Snake Buttress T 
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 
Sugar and Spice T 
Unimpeachable Groping S 

Fist or Flips 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward 1984
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Apr 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Fist or Flips in the center from the base of Power...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This clean-cut beauty is a great, pure splitter. Along with others like it, it is very unique to Red Rock. The only thing it lacks, from my knowledge, is a good anchor. It is definitely worth throwing a couple extra cams in the pack if you're going to be in the area.

From the right side of the ledge, climb a cool, lower angle thin hands crack past a bush (or the chimney to the left). Once at the dead vertical (perhaps slightly overhanging) headwall, some broken up handcracks lead to the base of the main course where a #3 will fit. For some it'll turn out to be pretty solid fists. For others, something a little more awkward! The crack and face are spectacularly clean. Eventually, the rock and crack become more broken up again and the rock quality gets, well, a little worse.


The route is obvious from the base of power failure. It's not really on the Ginger buttress. Continue up the gully, scrambling a bit, until a steep little bulge must be pulled to gain the big ledge at the base of the route.


Double up on everything from big fingers to hands with 3x #3s and 1-3x#4. The business is splitter #4 and you can walk one above you the whole way (easy) so only 1 is really needed. 3x #3s is a good idea.

Comments on Fist or Flips Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 4, 2013

I rapped off a fixed #2 camalot with a long cord clipped to it. It might be possible to continue to the top of the shoulder and rap off a tree back there. Or maybe there's an actual anchor up there. Going right after the crack ends to gain the top might work, but the rock looked a little scary over there. Going straight up, past the fixed #2, is also maybe possible. I had a 70m. A 60m from the #2 would probably work, but'd be close.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 7, 2013

cool to post, thanks, have wanted to do this in combo every time we head to that area but have never bothered to go look, nice post!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!