|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 10, 2009|
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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's description is interesting. Here is a little bit more detail...
At the nose of rock that protrudes from the center of Disco Buttress, locate the crack along its left side. Move up to below the first roof, plug a good #2, then use an undercling, face holds, and a high hand jam (painful!) to pull yourself over the lip. Easy moves lead up to the right nostril. Protect here with #3. My fists are too small to jam this bit, but with some face holds and footwork in the crack, you can pull through. Get a #4 as high as possible before pulling this, because unless you have and want to carry a #5, you will have to run it out a bit. Avoid the giant chunk at the top of the crack, instead straddling the nose and pulling up to the ledge. From here, step left to a brushy hands crack which splits the slab, and continue up this through 5.7ish stone to the anchors at the top.
Two glue-in bolts. Gear to 4".
From: Taipei City
Sep 5, 2014
This route is listed, interestingly enough, as a 5.8(yes you read that right) in Milk's old hand-drawn topos.
Rack to #4 or 5, or bring your big brassies