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Routes in (1) School Gate
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Little Creature Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oh! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piranha S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reincarnation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Seacrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seaface T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stairway To Heaven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stepover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-up Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
A climb which will be difficulty and fun-level dependent upon your personal taste and body size. The crux will be fists for some, forearms for others, and stacks for the smallest. The thuggy movement might beg the climber to wait for cooler weather, and the rock texture may encourage the less experienced crack climbers to wait for long-sleeve weather.
Climb a few easy moves to reach the bottom of the dihedral, then jam and thrutch up the fist and off-fist moves (forearm locks for me) through an early crux to reach more mellow climbing above, romping up 5.6 moves with good mid-sized protection to an anchor up and left. While the bottom is great rock and classic climbing - an essential for fist crack, it is over too soon to earn the full 3 stars (classic) that the Robertson book gives it. I'd give it two stars. The nearby route 'Surprise Crack (10a)' is a better route still, and a great warm-up for this one anyway.
Climb a few easy moves to reach the bottom of the dihedral, then jam and thrutch up the fist and off-fist moves (forearm locks for me) through an early crux to reach more mellow climbing above, romping up 5.6 moves with good mid-sized protection to an anchor up and left. While the bottom is great rock and classic climbing - an essential for fist crack, it is over too soon to earn the full 3 stars (classic) that the Robertson book gives it. I'd give it two stars. The nearby route 'Surprise Crack (10a)' is a better route still, and a great warm-up for this one anyway.
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