BETA PHOTO: At the 3rd bolt, just below the left facing corner...
Hidden amongst the trees deceptively close to the parking lot lies a couple of moderately large cliffs that contain good, but scary highball bouldering on often less than desirable landings. This is the North Rock.
The North Rock contains 15 - 35 foot high bouldering (yes, that's correct... a 35' bouldering area) from V0 to V3, on landings that are better than the South rock. At least it's flat down here. Most of the hard problems throw cruxes at you about 20 feet off the ground over a slab. Bring an army for spotters. The Sandstone and Schist of the North Rock has good spots, though the Schist sectiosn leave some spots (on the traverse in particular) loose a flakey.
The V1 highball Jugular is an excellent route, and ascends the second rightmost arete on excellent Castle Rock - like sandstone.
This rock is always in the shade, but watch out for Poison Oak around the base, especially if you're going to attempt to check out the taller sandstone cliffs to the left of established bouldering. Eventually someone could probably turn the left undeveloped rocks into a great top rope or easy lead area.
All routes walk off the top, which is right in front of the South Rock.
Approach time: 4 minutes.
From the second northmost parking lot: Follow the sign west out of the parking lot for the bluffs trail. Walk about 50 yards, where you will pick up the bluffs trail heading South (left). Walk along the trail about 200 yards past a bridge that passes over the creek, and you'll see the North Rock in the foreground, and the south rock in the background and uphill.
Pick up the climbers trail heading left from the bluffs trail as the trail gets close to the North Rock, and you're there!
It's also possible to pick up the Bluffs Trail from the South.
Weather station 7.8 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For North Rock
BETA PHOTO: 4th bolt, at a pocket.
A short line I spotted on the Arete left of Jugula...
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Oct 1, 2008
I hate to be the spoiler, but please note that park rangers are not psyched on rock climbing at this site. As a ranger ranted at me... "You guys (climbers) did major defoliation at a site which is (apparently) a sacred native american site." Please be respectful and consider a different location to climb on the coast.
May 26, 2013
the 2 bolt hangers are gone on this route. looks like you can rig an anchor with a long cord and a few cams from 2-3 inches.
Jun 8, 2014
There is no anchor at the top of the climb currently.