Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.
(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)
The route starts just right of Extreme Unction and just left of the Outer Darkness Chimney.
Some small to medium cams and there are some good nut placements as well.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
The moves to reach the 1st bolt can be protected with a #1 BD. It's a blind placement in a nice horizontal and you can readjust the cam from the last good hold before getting down to business.
There's also a great .75 placement above the 2nd bolt just to the left of the arete that protects the upper section.
A few micros protect the last easy bit of climbing.
Sep 25, 2009
Tried this today and got sucked to the right after the 2nd bolt where a good hold appears. Was fun but not the route I was going for, next time I guess. Could this be a new variation? LOL
|By Mark SLC|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
For me 2 #1 camalots and a 0.75 were plenty to stitch this up. No need for gear above the second obvious red camalot where unction roof meets the arete/face. And the crux moves are protected by well placed bolts. Short but so sweet. And yeah definitely go right onto that arete - where you do it is debatable - my partner went higher for it than I did, but you are missing out on the best moves of the route going right.
|By Josh Triplett|
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Love this route, led it today for the first time. Fell crux both times I attempted it, but I have the sequence now and will send on my next burn. I did not use a BD, it was way too big for any pockets that I saw. I placed a blue master cam to protect up to the first bolt. I would love to know where you sneaking in such a large cam. I could have just missed it, but I looked around for a while without success.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2013
Fantastic climb. I like the variety - jugs at the start, crimps and arete-slapping through the bolts, easy weird fergy climbing to the chains.
I used a blue metolius below the first bolt (no extension needed), a red mastercam (green BD) above the second bolt, and a #1 BD above that. Not sure where gear could go above that, but the climbing is easy. Very well protected.