Fisherman's Elbow 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 350 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | John Hayes, Scott McNamara, JSt,EFR, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 17, 2008 |
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Description Long moderate with some fun climbing on knobs and the third pitch has some great exposure. Never done bottom to top on lead John and Scott stole the FA yesterday in record time.
Location Drop down the west side of the Fortress. As you descend you will find a tower as the cliff base swings to the west. Scramble up gully between the tower and the main wall to the small saddle. 1) From saddle follow the bolts up the face to the right and belay on top of giant rounded flake. 2) Step across and climb more knobs to easy ground and belay below headwall left of crack/corner. Move left then up face as it eases look for a bolt on the left that protects easy moves up short headwall. Work your way around bushes to a big flat ledge with a single bolt. 4) Step across then work left to bolts leading up face. Single blot belay where you can still look down at your partner. At the start if you go straight up the weaknesses then step right on to bolted face you will have a long single 10- pitch that will take you to the top of second pitch of the described route.
Protection Bolts
| Comments on Fisherman's Elbow |
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By Jimbo
Sep 17, 2008
| Too steal the FA from a fellow injured climber. Is this what the world is coming to???
After all I've done for the local climbing community.
I get no respect, no respect at all....
and this was the the one that would have finally made me a contender... |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 18, 2008
| Hey Jim, I thought I had convinced you to follow my lead and be a pretender. It is a lot easier and you will save that elbow for more important things like.......... fishing. |
By Matt Walker
Nov 10, 2008
| this is not a criticism: what is the thought behind the single bolt belays? can you back them up with gear near by? 2nd bolts to be added later? just a question for the FA team.
thanks. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 18, 2008
| Hey Matt, the single bolts are because you are on a big ledge and there is a lot of friction between your butt and the rock. Starting the next pitch this doesn't really apply but you are even with the belayer about the time you clip the first bolt. At the top you can brace your feet against the rock so it would be hard to cause the bolt to be weighted. Feel free to add one at each location if you are so inclined. E. |
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Aug 31, 2009
| 4 pitches, not 3. 100', 100', 100', 60'. Only the last two pitches have single bolt belays. This seems quite safe. Gear or knob tie-offs needed for third pitch. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| this is a wonderful addition to the fortress! fun, moderate climbing the whole way.
at the start of the third pitch, walk about 10' to the left to a bolt on a bulge. the second bolt is hard to see, it's about four feet directly above the first. |
By Sean Campbell
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Super fun!
Need 11 draws for the first pitch (if you use 2 on the anchors) and less for the rest. For the third pitch, I did not see a need for knob or gear tie offs. Finally, it is 4 pitches although you could link the last two (probably with rope drag). |
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