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Shipwreck Wall - East Face
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Fish N' Chips 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ben Moon
Season: afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: ferrells on Feb 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Fish 'n Chips is the flake crack in the center of ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Even though the guidebook says this is a good route, I was skeptical. But the rock was clean, the moves were fun from the beginning, and the end was thrilling. Take a moment to look around while you are doing it - the position is fantastic. I ended up being really impressed.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.

Location 

The upper Shipwreck Wall ends in a crumbling ampitheater. If you follow the rock from Shipwreck to the right, this is the first solid piece of stone you find. Look for a bolted seam/flake/crack with a subtle-looking overhang at the top.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.

Protection 

bolts, roughly 10


Photos of Fish N' Chips Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Fish 'n Chips from the base.
Looking up at Fish 'n Chips from the base.

Comments on Fish N' Chips Add Comment
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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 13, 2010

It's been a while, but I remember this route being quite a treat. A great route on great rock and in a great location. Get thee up the gully.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
May 14, 2011

Psyched to see this one added to the data base, it's definitely worth the walk.
By Paul Trendler
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 14, 2012

First time up it was awesome! Second time I popped a few small feet off, but overall it's a really fun route.
By dmPete
Mar 31, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Super fun! Only reason this isn't among the most popular 5.10s at Smith has got to be the location...but even that's great for the fantastic view at the top of the route and the absence of scummy, chalk-stained holds.
By Erik Keever
Apr 22, 2015

Great climb that slowly & continuously goes from easy to overhanging as you go. Once the angle passes vertical, the race is on!

The trail at the upper end of shipwreck gulley does leave something to be desired... Seeing what the holds on some mid 10s look like by autumn I'm OK with this. Consider it our reward for enduring a bit of approach.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
May 18, 2015

As the description states, the finish is thrilling and the position is fantastic. Super refreshing whenever you get sick of smiths endless crimps and nubs.
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