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Cascade Falls - Left
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Crimson Cringe T 
Filthy Rich T 
Fish Crack T 
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Jug Monkey T 
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Fish Crack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, 1975
Page Views: 4,093
Submitted By: Brad G on Feb 5, 2009

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1978

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the thin finger crack to the left of Crimson Cringe. Start by climbing up the ramp. Place some gear with a long runner then turn the corner and bust up the thin crack to the anchors. There’s a rest along the way. There’s a photo of this route on the back cover of the Super Topo Yosemite Valley free climbs guide.

Location 

To the Left of Crimson Cringe

Protection 

Thin to about .4
To protect the moves getting into the crack take a #2 or #3 forget which. You'll know from the base.


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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

Cleaned by Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, 1975
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 10, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Start the route with an unprotected face traverse on knobs from left to right (5.8/9). Turn the corner to a chimney and a fist crack. This section protects with a #4 BD and a #3 BD on a double-shoulder length runner.

Turn back around the corner and move onto a perch and the start of the finger crack. Unclip the big cams to prevent rope drag and place a few pieces in the crack so you are safe. The finger crack eats up yellow alien and green alien sized cams. I brought 4x yellow size and 4x green size as my rack but it is possible (not necessary) to get in some larger size nuts, .5 BD and blue alien size pieces.

At the diorite knob mid-route, the route goes from straight in crack to liebacking the offset side of the crack. There are different ways to approach this section but eventually you'll want to place some gear at your head and fire that bodylength section (crux). Falls are big but clean unless you can wiggle in gear from the lieback.

Classic and safe with a bouldery crux.

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