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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mister Meaner S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Fish Corner  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V1- Font: 5- R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/07
Page Views: 952
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Sep 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: you can see the high bolt on the right wall

Description 

This route climbs the tight dihedral to the right of Anchovy Caper. Originally done as a highball boulder problem up the corner and down climbed via Anchovy Caper, there is now a high bolt at the top of the dihedral for a directional if top roping, or you can pr-clip it for "leading".

Start on a good hold and a crimp and toss to a good jug on right dihedral wall, climb the dihedral until bolt near the top (20+ feet of the ground) from here climb easier climbing up to the anchors for Anchovy Caper.

The history of this route is interesting, the bolts that you climb on were actually there for a easier alternative to Anchovy Caper, and the dihedral was done as a boulder problem, I believe by Mark Sprague, if you link the two together you get a quality route. It would be great for one lower bolt so its not quite so scary. It can by protected by lowering off from Anchovy Caper and pre-placing the quick-draw. (I would recommend this since the bolt is above the crux)


Location 

This is just right of Anchovy Caper and left of Green Mile, in a tight dihedral, there is a bolt at the top of the dihedral, which is another reference point.


Protection 

Four or five bolts, a crash pad and spotter for the boulder start.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 13, 2009

If anyone has any information on this route or think I have been mistaken on something please let me know. This is an awesome route but could use one more bolt to protect the crux. I got some of the information from the comments made on the page for Anchovy Caper.

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Mar 2, 2010

Mark or Ed told me you could just stick clip the first bolt and have at it. or do what you said and lower off Anchovy and put a draw on that bolt and clip your rope to it on the way down.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 2, 2010

you would need a very long stick clip... longer than mine anyway... with all bolts in this wall why do this route this way instead of putting in one more?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 3, 2010

I agree with Lee, this route is one bolt from becoming fairly popular, it would be good to have another .10 in this area for busy days.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 3, 2010

or get a longer pole...

By BALDY
From: Gilmanton, NH
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I certainly see where Matt and Lee are coming from, thinning the crowds is good. BUT I think it is nice to have a .10 like this at Main Left where it takes a certain level of commitment, and you get that "don't fall now" feeling.

By S. Neoh
Jul 3, 2010

I would love to see a lower 1st glue-in on this climb. Looks like nature is slowly reclaiming it with almost no traffic whatsoever on it. A shame.

If cost is an issue, let's talk.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 3, 2010

Don't you think it can be very easily TRed, and thereby not giving the rock a pin cushion effect? The bolt is more as a directional for that. I think we figured if people really wanted to lead it, they could figure how to get it clipped. The lower corner isn't really that interesting. The highball spicyness as a boulder problem is what made it intriguing to me. Personally, I like the easy climbing above that was originally a variation to Anchovy better. It makes a nice solo up to the ledge.

If people really want a lower bolt and somebody has the skill to put a good quality bolt in, have at it. My drill and bolting kit is about 6 miles out in the woods, so I don't think I will be carrying it out to do it any time soon. Just make sure the bolt or a draw hanging from it wont get in the way when climbing. Maybe scrub it up and boulder it first to see if you really think it needs a bolt.

By S. Neoh
Jul 4, 2010

Didn't have a pad or experienced spotter today.
Since I do not have the expertise to place a lower glue-in, I will try to find a long enough stick to lay at the base of this climb/problem. Perhaps this will get people to try out the climb w/o needing to get on Anchovy Caper first (so that one can place a draw on the high bolt on lower from A.C.).
I guess my point is nature will reclaim the line and the glue-ins already placed if the climb never sees any traffic. That would be a shame and the fine effort and quality glue-ins that went into this climb would go to waste.

By CLamb
Aug 15, 2010

I was able to solo past the first bolt of Anchovy Caper, then climb over into the dihedral and stick clip the first bolt of this.

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 18, 2011

In the new guidebook this is not rated R. Have some bolts been added?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 19, 2011

No. It is expected that you would stick clip the high bolt(or just boulder it with pads and a spotter)

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 16, 2012

I attempted to stick clip the first bolt yesterday. I am 6 feet tall with long arms and had a 10 foot stick clip. Still not tall enough. If you are going to try this route, be prepared to either boulder the crux or repel down to preclip the first bolt.

By twellman
Sep 23, 2012

I also think this is deserving of a lower, stick-clippable bolt. The corner is quite fun, and I think the reason no one climbs it is because all the bolts are after the crux!

Mark, does the bolt need to be a glue-in?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 24, 2012

It probably should be. It is Rumney after all. Non-glue-ins seem to loosen up pretty quickly there, especially crux first bolts. Maybe you can bribe Smitty to do it. I think he has the technology. I'm still busy developing "the New Rumney" before it gets out, so I won't be able to get to it any time soon.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012

If one were to put a bolt in that can be clipped after the first move, so your feet are ~5 or 6 feet off the ground, would that be high enough that there would be no ground fall potential between the new bolt and the current lowest bolt?

By J Meagher
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

A great candidate for your first 5.10, because a stick-clip is all you need to protect the crux. Put both hands on a good crimp about 1 foot above head height, get both feet on a ledge below the bulge, and fire for the box-shaped jug (hard bouldery move)! The rest of the corner is about 5.7 ish, and the slabs above are probably 5.1 or so. Despite that this is a "one move wonder" route, I feel another lower bolt in the corner would make this much more popular. If you're not comfortable leading a 5.10, do Anchovie Caper first and toprope this(they share an anchor).

Also, does anybody know of any other good 5.10's that share an anchor with an easier route and can be toproped easily?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 24, 2012

3 things:
1.NICE JOB :)
2.most stick clips wont reach the first bolt as has been discussed at length above...
3.the first thing that comes to mind for the 5.10 you are looking for is to climb the Digger-Bug link up (5.8) then top rope Gold Bug 5.10 c/d... fun stuff... there are others im sure, ill get back to you when i think more...

By J Meagher
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

By the 'Digger-Bug' linkup, do you mean climb Gold Digger to the chains, then traverse left onto Goldbug, or do you traverse left earlier?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 30, 2012

"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

thats basically a route description for what im talking about and i will copy it to the Gold Digger description for all to see :)

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 23, 2013

I remember folks talking about the first bolt being high but I hadn't attempted to stick clip it until the other day - hah! The bite is definitely in making that initial move up the right face. After that the corner lets off but makes for a couple of trusting moves until you reach the bolt. I'm indifferent about the addition of a bolt... but I lean towards there are plenty of other climbs on either side to climb if you can't protect this one. And when "the New Rumney" is finished being developed, maybe no one will care about this corner. :)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 23, 2013

Fine point but what was the point of putting any bolts in then... could have left it as R/X rated or top rope...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013

I think when Ward put it in he was thinking of it as mostly a directional for TRing. I don't mind if somebody who knows how to put glue-ins well wants to put a lower one in. It is pretty low on my very long list of things to do. Moving the Green Mile anchors down and left is higher on my agenda. If while doing that I have a spare bolt and glue I will see about it. I think it is funny how much conversation this low star little corner generates.

By S. Neoh
Jul 23, 2013

I say "chop the bolt, spare the conversation". Tongue in cheek of course.