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The Eden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East of Eden T 
Fish & Whistle T,TR 
Forbidden Fruit S 
Garden Of Eden T,S 
West of Eden T 

Fish & Whistle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 802
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Fish and Whistle.

Description 

Fish & Whistle climbs the dramatic arete to the left of East of Eden. There is some history to this route (see comments below), but on closer inspection it is unclear if the route was ever bolted and chopped.

As it stands now, it is a fully bolt protected line and is one of the best of the grade in the Poudre. The crux comes at the 2nd bolt and continues up the arete with continuous climbing in the 5.10 range. There are some gently committing moves between bolts, but all the bolts are well positioned to protect the harder climbing.

Location 

Climb the arete just left of East of Eden.

Protection 

This is now fully bolt protected (11-12 bolts).


Photos of Fish & Whistle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken's rack beta for the climb....
Ken's rack beta for the climb....
Rock Climbing Photo: Dede on the Fish and Whistle arete.
Dede on the Fish and Whistle arete.

Comments on Fish & Whistle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bolts and anchor replaced today. Several small cams from 00 to #2 TCUs and a medium stopper needed. The crux is moving left and up from the second bolt. Several TCU placements follow. Save the 00 for the last placement (in a horizontal) before the third bolt.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2015

Awesome, Ken and DeDe!
Thanks for updating this killer route.
By eric owen
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 1, 2015

I was very unpleased to see that bolts were added to this line. Can you explain putting in bolts on an existing line?
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This line was supposedly bolted years ago and then chopped. It hasn't been led since then.
By eric owen
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 2, 2015

Was it orginally bolted by the FA? I would have liked it to remain a 10c X route/headpoint route. Seems like a waste of material and unnecessary damage to the rock, more so since it is a easy TR once you lead the corner route. Since it was chopped once before, someone must have had a reason to chop it, so why rebolt it? Has this reason of chopping it before, been resolved? To me, this does not seems much different than adding bolts to existing routes at Duncan's Ridge.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route was bolted by the FA party (an unknown person from the Midwest). To the best of my knowledge, it has never been headpointed and is only rarely top-roped. I did talk to several of the usual bolt chopping suspects, and none of them had any idea why the route had been chopped.

The Poudre Canyon is completely different from Duncan's and the rest of the Horsetooth bouldering areas. The Poudre has a bolting ethic - most of the climbs are bolted. Duncan's/Horsetooth has a no bolt ethic with no bolted routes until the recent episode. They are two completely different areas with totally different ethics. You are comparing apples and oranges.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Being pro-bolting of routes that had been climbed hundreds or thousands of times at Duncan's without bolts while being anti-bolting when it comes to a route that has never been led without bolts up the Poudre is blatant hipocracy. Obviously you are just trolling. Consequently I will not respond to any further comments of yours.
By heppnerd
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun route. All the gear placements looked marginal, so I skipped them and went from the 2nd to 3rd bolt with nothing. That said, if you can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt, getting to the 3rd should be easy, but if you fall, you could deck. IMO this would be a better climb if a bolt was added. I am just a visitor to the area, so my opinion shouldn't count for much, but thanks, Ken, for all the hard work. My 11 year old came off this climb grinning from ear to ear.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
May 13, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

With the above comment and after talking to people, we elected to add three bolts at the bottom of the route making it a sport lead.

In the several times I've been on this, I have only found one old bolt hole. That one is half way between F&W and West of Eden two feet from the top, maybe a directional for TRing from the East of Eden anchors. Not sure this was ever bolted in the past.
By Owen Murphy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a total Poudre gem. I would agree that it definitely made sense to go ahead and have the whole thing bolted. Don't yard on the scary, hollow sounding block before the anchors though. Otherwise, this is a MUST for anyone stopping by to climb in the Eden area.

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