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The Eden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East of Eden T 
Fish & Whistle T,TR 
Garden Of Eden T,S 
West of Eden T 

Fish & Whistle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Fish and Whistle.

Description 

Using the bolt anchor above East of Eden and a gear redirect, you can TR this fun line with a 70m rope. The guidebook rated this one only 5.10c, but if you take the line in the guidebook, the opening moves are closer to 5.11a. Once the arete is gained, you can straddle the feature to the top.

This route can now be lead. See Ken's comments below...

Location 

Climb the arete just left of East of Eden.

Protection 

Bolts supplemented with small cams and few medium nuts.


Photos of Fish & Whistle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dede on the Fish and Whistle arete.
Dede on the Fish and Whistle arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken's rack beta for the climb....
Ken's rack beta for the climb....

Comments on Fish & Whistle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bolts and anchor replaced today. Several small cams from 00 to #2 TCUs and a medium stopper needed. The crux is moving left and up from the second bolt. Several TCU placements follow. Save the 00 for the last placement (in a horizontal) before the third bolt.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2015

Awesome, Ken and DeDe!
Thanks for updating this killer route.
By eric owen
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 1, 2015

I was very unpleased to see that bolts were added to this line. Can you explain putting in bolts on an existing line?
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This line was bolted years ago and then chopped. It hasn't been led since then.
By eric owen
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 2, 2015

Was it orginally bolted by the FA? I would have liked it to remain a 10c X route/headpoint route. Seems like a waste of material and unnecessary damage to the rock, more so since it is a easy TR once you lead the corner route. Since it was chopped once before, someone must have had a reason to chop it, so why rebolt it? Has this reason of chopping it before, been resolved? To me, this does not seems much different than adding bolts to existing routes at Duncan's Ridge.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route was bolted by the FA party (an unknown person from the Midwest). To the best of my knowledge, it has never been headpointed and is only rarely top-roped. I did talk to several of the usual bolt chopping suspects, and none of them had any idea why the route had been chopped.

The Poudre Canyon is completely different from Duncan's and the rest of the Horsetooth bouldering areas. The Poudre has a bolting ethic - most of the climbs are bolted. Duncan's/Horsetooth has a no bolt ethic with no bolted routes until the recent episode. They are two completely different areas with totally different ethics. You are comparing apples and oranges.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Being pro-bolting of routes that had been climbed hundreds or thousands of times at Duncan's without bolts while being anti-bolting when it comes to a route that has never been led without bolts up the Poudre is blatant hipocracy. Obviously you are just trolling. Consequently I will not respond to any further comments of yours.
By heppnerd
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun route. All the gear placements looked marginal, so I skipped them and went from the 2nd to 3rd bolt with nothing. That said, if you can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt, getting to the 3rd should be easy, but if you fall, you could deck. IMO this would be a better climb if a bolt was added. I am just a visitor to the area, so my opinion shouldn't count for much, but thanks, Ken, for all the hard work. My 11 year old came off this climb grinning from ear to ear.

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