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First trip to the RED
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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 3, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

I'm excited to finally hit RRG in a week.

Looking for suggestions on areas to go to. My partner and I are both pretty experienced moderate level trad climbers who will do some sport as well. We're bringing a couple friends who we got to fall in love with climbing at Devil's Lake. We're looking for a decent area where a group of 8 with a handful of beginners won't get in the way. Devils Lake is pretty laid back and we know the less traveled areas so we've never had a problem bringing them there to climb even if they end up hangdogging something a bit harder than they should be on.

Looking for a good mix of trad and top rope with maybe a bit of sport mixed in. Mostly 5-fun to 5.9 I'd say will be best for our group. Anyone have some suggestions of "Must do" for my first trip to the gorge where we won't be piled on top of other people or having our beginners get in the way.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 3, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

first off, you are going on the busiest weekend of the year. Unless you find a trad-only crag that is WAY off the beaten path, you will be in the middle of a lot of clusterfucks.

Pebble Beach is a great place for moderate trad and bigger groups, though you will want to get there earlier so that you get the best pick of the lines.

Beyond that, check out the routes database at redriverclimbing.com. It is pretty searchable to find what you are looking for.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 3, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

I would never go back there during rocktoberfest! Good luck... get ready for people everywhere and gumbies galore at all the moderate areas. You aren't
going to find an empty area of moderates for a group. Just contribute to the clusterfuck that is rocktoberfest


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 3, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

We won't be there this weekend for Rocktoberfest. Next week.


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By Matt Kuehl
From Las Vegas
Oct 3, 2012
Plumbers Crack

I'd recommend bringing lots of swill and a tent that's easy to open late at night. I haven't been to the Red in a while but I'm sure Miguel's will be stuffed with people looking for advice/giving out advice that could fit your needs. Be prepared to deal with some local drama (always more swill) and your experience should be pretty good. If there are some hotties in your group you might even yourself a hillbilly guide that would follow you around for free!


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 3, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Matt Kuehl wrote:
I'd recommend bringing lots of swill and a tent that's easy to open late at night. I haven't been to the Red in a while but I'm sure Miguel's will be stuffed with people looking for advice/giving out advice that could fit your needs. Be prepared to deal with some local drama (always more swill) and your experience should be pretty good. If there are some hotties in your group you might even yourself a hillbilly guide that would follow you around for free!



LOL. Solid advice. Thanks.


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By Alex Mitchell
From Utica, NY
Oct 3, 2012
Me Climbing

Any wall with multible moderate sport lines are going to be gang banged this time of year. There is really no TR lines at the Red. You have to lead them and set a TR. You will find wonderful moderate trad lines between two gangbanged sport routes with no one on it.

A trick that seems kind of stupid is start the day a bit late and climb till dark. The crags usually start clearing out around 3 and you may even get a whole crag to yourself by 5. Early starts are kind of pointless. By 8 you will be surrounded by 20 people.

If you like quiter camping Land of the Arches is closer to most crags and for $5/night includes showers and WiFi. They also allow campfires. They have a web site and a FB page.


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Oct 3, 2012
hi

Indian Creek. Go there!


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 3, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Alex Mitchell wrote:
Any wall with multible moderate sport lines are going to be gang banged this time of year. There is really no TR lines at the Red. You have to lead them and set a TR. You will find wonderful moderate trad lines between two gangbanged sport routes with no one on it. A trick that seems kind of stupid is start the day a bit late and climb till dark. The crags usually start clearing out around 3 and you may even get a whole crag to yourself by 5. Early starts are kind of pointless. By 8 you will be surrounded by 20 people. If you like quiter camping Land of the Arches is closer to most crags and for $5/night includes showers and WiFi. They also allow campfires. They have a web site and a FB page.


Yeah I had planned on any TR setups having to be led first...which is just a bonus for the two of us that lead. I also figured that Trad routes may have slightly less traffic than any of the sport routes depending on the area. Any suggestions on actual areas for us to focus on?

Thanks for the suggestions, very helpful.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 3, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

jon jugenheimer wrote:
Indian Creek. Go there!


Oh wow, Crack Attack and Slimy Creature look like absolute blasts!


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By Alex Mitchell
From Utica, NY
Oct 3, 2012
Me Climbing

Indian Creek has some great routes that do not get to busy. Other good crags are Funk Rock City, Long Wall, Dip Wall, Pebble Beach, and Wall of Denial are all good places to climb trad on busy days. Moderate sport is a bit harder to find that will not be busy. Stay away from Military, Left Flank, Bruise Brothers, Great Wall, The Shire, the Gallery, and Volunteer Wall. All get very crowded.

A good set of walls all right in line with each other is What About Bob Wall, Courtesy Wall, and, Rival Wall. They oddly do not get busy even with there very short approach. There is some decent sport routes, with a few good trad lines squeezed in. These are not classic crags by any account but a good place to escape crowds and still clip some bolts.

A lot of new routes have been put up since the last guide book so it is also a good idea to check out redriverclimbing.com and the online guide book which has lots of great beta and all the routes added since the last book.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Alex Mitchell wrote:
Indian Creek has some great routes that do not get to busy. Other good crags are Funk Rock City, Long Wall, Dip Wall, Pebble Beach, and Wall of Denial are all good places to climb trad on busy days. Moderate sport is a bit harder to find that will not be busy. Stay away from Military, Left Flank, Bruise Brothers, Great Wall, The Shire, the Gallery, and Volunteer Wall. All get very crowded. A good set of walls all right in line with each other is What About Bob Wall, Courtesy Wall, and, Rival Wall. They oddly do not get busy even with there very short approach. There is some decent sport routes, with a few good trad lines squeezed in. These are not classic crags by any account but a good place to escape crowds and still clip some bolts. A lot of new routes have been put up since the last guide book so it is also a good idea to check out redriverclimbing.com and the online guide book which has lots of great beta and all the routes added since the last book.



Indian Creek has my partner and I drooling over a few of the trad lines, but I think most of the climbs there are just a touch above what our friends are going to want to be on. They are mostly in the 5-fun area with a couple of them managing to grunt through a 5.7-5.8.

I'm going off Devil's Lake ratings on that too since that's the only place we've taken them.


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By Alex Mitchell
From Utica, NY
Oct 4, 2012
Me Climbing

The Red is really messed up when it comes to grades. Depending on where you are the grades can feel really old school or really soft.

Given the Juggy nature of the climbing a noob that can do a few pull ups can hang dog up almost anything that would normally be at of there league.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Alex Mitchell wrote:
The Red is really messed up when it comes to grades. Depending on where you are the grades can feel really old school or really soft. Given the Juggy nature of the climbing a noob that can do a few pull ups can hang dog up almost anything that would normally be at of there league.


Cool, good to know. I was told that compared to the Lake the ratings at the Gorge are going to be a lot more accurate or indicitive of the "actual" difficulty.

Thanks for the input. I cannot wait to get down there. We have a full day of Trad Climbing before our friends coem down to hangdog so we're currently debating between indian creek and long wall. So many beautiful lines so little time.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 4, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

A 5.9 sport route is very different then a 5.9 trad route there.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

NickinCO wrote:
A 5.9 sport route is very different then a 5.9 trad route there.


That is something I fully expect.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 4, 2012
El Chorro

You can't call it "The Gorge." There isn't really a gorge there.


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By Alex Mitchell
From Utica, NY
Oct 4, 2012
Me Climbing

Ryan Williams wrote:
You can't call it "The Gorge." There isn't really a gorge there.


Most people cal it "The Red" so as not to be confussed with "The New".


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Yep. I screwed that one up.


That kinda gumbie mistake could get someone killed lol.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Title of thread FIXED


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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Oct 4, 2012
Summit of Rainier.

I recommend the "rock house" for a burger and a beer at the end of the day-the food is very good and a nice change from pizza at miguels. If your group hasn't climbed much, check out the arrowhead at pebble beach. They should think its a pretty cool feature. Once u lead, the others can climb.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Oct 4, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Check out Purple Valley and stay at Land of the Arches. It won't be the zoo that Miguel's is, and it is also closer to the beer trailer.


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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Oct 4, 2012
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.

Mike Belu wrote:
I recommend the "rock house" for a burger and a beer at the end of the day-the food is very good and a nice change from pizza at miguels. If your group hasn't climbed much, check out the arrowhead at pebble beach. They should think its a pretty cool feature. Once u lead, the others can climb.


We were actually discussing Arrohead last night. We wanted to lead them up Bedtime for Bonzo but it would be a logistical nightmare with so many I think. Thanks for the food suggestions too guys.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Ryan Williams wrote:
You can't call it "The Gorge." There isn't really a gorge there.


Apparently the old schoolers called it The Gorge and as the area grew in popularity it began to be known as The Red (which according to Red River Ruckus sounds like a venereal disease). A gorge per se there is not, but as a geological feature is does have characteristics of a gorge.

With that said... Rocktoberfest is busy. October is busy. But, if you go there with this knowledge and peruse the guidebook I'm sure you'll find crags seldom visited that are to your liking. Mix it up- climb some trad, climb some sport and just be willing to cooperate with others if you decide to go to a busier crag.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 4, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Boots Ylectric wrote:
We were actually discussing Arrohead last night. We wanted to lead them up Bedtime for Bonzo but it would be a logistical nightmare with so many I think. Thanks for the food suggestions too guys.


watch out for lizards.. had one crawl up my hand and off my elbow on lead while climbing arrowhead LOL. I didn't think bedtime for bonzo was that great, and I don't remember a lot of other good stuff in that area. That was in spring though and there was a ton of new growth everywhere so maybe it cleans up better throughout the summer and into the fall.


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By Nick Evans
Oct 4, 2012

I'm also taking a trip to the red, but I am going during rocktober fest. Not the best planning for privacy but hell, it's THE RED and I only have Sat, Sun and Mon.

My question: What can I expect from Rocktoberfest? I wanna hit Long Wall, PMRP, and military wall to climb .8-.10 trad and .9-.12 sport classics. Will I be able to find a parking spot anywhere? Will I be able to find any open routes? Am I stupid for trying to go to these popular walls?

I also know about the climbing comp at PMRP on Sat. so I assume it will be packed. Can I get access without joining the comp? I might try the trad destinations on the weekend and PMRP on Mon to avoid crowds.


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