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First Trad Lead report!
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Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
I've wondered since I got into the sport 2 years ago if I would ever be ready for leading trad while top roping. I always looked at the devil dancers of trad. at Devils lake often in aw and respect. Well, I finally had my day in boulder canyon on boulderado wall. It wasn't a hard climb, it wasn't a technical climb, but it was my first trad climb, first trad lead, and first lead ever, and I could be more happy about it. I went up with a full rack of nuts and hexes and spent through nearly all of them. I had two pieces walk because I ran out of long draws. I can't thank some of the experts enough on this website for your advice on gear, climbs, and technique just to further the sport and help people out. AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
First trad climb
First trad climb
AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 3, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
nice!!! Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
with a 100 lb belayer...I knew if shit hit the fan...
with a 100 lb belayer...I knew if shit hit the fan than a soft catch was sure to happen


Post Celebration...without I don't know if I would...
Post Celebration...without I don't know if I would have made it.
AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 3, 2013
Lion King with the pup.
Thanks for sharing the psyche! SteveZ
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 7, 2007
458 points
Mar 3, 2013
Awesome! That sounds like a familiar story except I still feel pretty far from my first trad lead. Thanks for the inspiration! KristineK
From Atlanta, GA
Joined Feb 10, 2013
0 points
Mar 4, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
hell yeah man! welcome to the sharp end! Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Joined Dec 10, 2010
112 points
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
Thanks guys and thank you John for some good entry future trad leads that are in the area. I'll be looking for those this coming weekend with hopefully some better stories. Maybe I can talk my girlfriend into belaying topless or something haha. AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 4, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Congrats man, greatest feeling ever.....NOW WHAT?


ELDO!!
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Mar 4, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life
Congrats man! Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Joined Apr 26, 2009
106 points
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys. AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 4, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
You sounds wise beyond your years my man. But don't be afraid to look at many of the first pitches in Eldo, and there are some great beginner leads that are single pitch with raps from trees etc...That is where I cut my teeth for what it is worth.

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Mar 4, 2013
AlanJ wrote:
I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys.

Sweet! Don't worry man, no one here knows how to rescue a second balls simlple 3 pitches up t2 . Do until you cannot.
Solo the 1st
belay 2 seconds on Cobb
Race up McGregor w the biggest gumbo you know
Pretend like you know, til you don't, then find out
Climb on!
Clifton Santiago
Joined Apr 22, 2010
0 points
Mar 4, 2013
Eff yeah! That was my first real trad lead as well. Good work and keep up the stoke. Murdo
Joined Mar 3, 2008
37 points
Mar 4, 2013
aliens
Nice man!
Remember, trad is rad!
Ethan Henderson
From Silverdale, WA
Joined Oct 11, 2010
675 points
Mar 4, 2013
Profile photo, exhaustion after a long day on Rain...
Congrats man! I just broke into this last season as well. Awesome feeling. Travis Senor
From Mailing Address in NC
Joined Feb 2, 2013
30 points
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss! AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 4, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA
awesome. congrats on your first lead. stay safe. Michael C
From New Jersey
Joined Jun 9, 2011
306 points
Mar 4, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
AlanJ wrote:
Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss!


hooray for new gear!
hooray for new gear!
Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Joined Dec 10, 2010
112 points
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
HAHA that's an awesome card. Maybe if I invest in scratch-offs and lotto tickets I can buy a full set of Black Diamond X4's when they come out. AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Mar 16, 2013
Kilroy
awesome, looks like a fun climb for sure, props on doing your first in the snow, what route was it? Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Joined Oct 27, 2009
287 points
Mar 16, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Kilroywashere! wrote:
awesome, looks like a fun climb for sure, props on doing your first in the snow, what route was it?


looks like ho hum, 5.4
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Mar 16, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
Good job! Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
1,053 points
Mar 16, 2013
nice man, gettin after it! come on over to eldo. lots of easy classics to learn on ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
7 points
Mar 16, 2013
#2
much more positive than some of my first... watching stoppers pull 8 feet below... nice work! Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Joined Dec 6, 2010
82 points


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