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First time at red rocks this weekend- advice
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By SLippy
Nov 21, 2013

Hi,
I have skimmed the FAQ and didn't see what i wanted. Too lazy to search further so...
First time at red rock this weekend from sunday to tuesday. I realize it will probably be busy everywhere but looking to boulder and sport climb 10s and 11s. I know there is a lot of good trad but going to zion for the rest of the week so i want to save trad for then.
Any suggestions on itineraries and/or destinations? The black corridor looks cool but i assume it will be packed? Odds I can get a camp site? Other suggestions?


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By Adam Floyd
From Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
Nov 21, 2013
Vegas the Dog

It is currently raining in Red Rock, probably not the best weekend to climb there.


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By pkeds
From Hermosa Beach, CA
Nov 21, 2013

i've never been turned away at the CG there. the most that has happened is that the host says official sites are full, just walk 30 ft out into the desert and pitch camp.

i wouldnt climb there either this weekend. something about that super strong sandstone + rain....


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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 21, 2013
Skiing around.

www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeF>>>

Have you seen the "Best Routes for YOU" feature?
Try it sometime... I use it all the time.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Nov 21, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Please avoid Red Rock this weekend. It is currently raining here and is forecasted to rain more, and more heavily, throughout the duration of the weekend. Please allow 24+ hours for the sandstone here to dry out.

In addition, as it relates to Zion, the sandstone there is a bit softer than what we have here at Red Rock - and by virtue of that takes longer to dry out...also highly advisable to avoid that during and immediately following a storm cycle.


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By Josh Janes
Nov 21, 2013

Too lazy to read an FAQ? Or buy a guidebook? And you expect other people to respond (i.e. do the work for you)? Interesting.

Here are some "other suggestions":

Television.
Slot Machines.
Masturbation.
X Box 360.


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By SLippy
Nov 21, 2013

Didn't know about that feature Darren. Thanks. I'll make sure to avoid climbing this weekend. I have a guidebook-just looking for peoples personal opinions- specifically as relating to crowds.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Nov 21, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 21, 2013
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

Josh Janes wrote:
Too lazy to read an FAQ? Or buy a guidebook? And you expect other people to respond (i.e. do the work for you)? Interesting. Here are some "other suggestions": Television. Slot Machines. Masturbation. X Box 360.


tele vision www.mountainproject.com/v/tele-vision/108141213

slot machine www.mountainproject.com/v/slot-machine/105732722

The beta for josh's suggestions...although as far as masturbation and xbox360 those you might have to consult someone else for that beta.

...but ya its raining so no climbing


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By SLippy
Nov 21, 2013

Thanks for the beta Mostafa. I asked my dad for beta on those other two. I'll post a trip report after.


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By Daniel Gloven
From Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2013
<ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Unused* poop tube</li></ul>

Weston L wrote:
In addition, as it relates to Zion, the sandstone there is a bit softer than what we have here at Red Rock - and by virtue of that takes longer to dry out...also highly advisable to avoid that during and immediately following a storm cycle.


Weston L (and others who are more familiar with Utah sandstone), let's say theoretically that I was hoping to get on a wall in Zion on Monday or Tuesday next week (and booked a flight awhile back). Should I scratch the entire trip, or would Zion be climbable it doesn't rain for most of Sunday? I need to leave Zion by Thanksgiving so my climbing window is the 25th to the 27th.

I obviously don't want to do anything unsafe, or worse, damage the rock.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 21, 2013

depends on the aspect of the route (south facing is best, obviously- Touchstone will be the quickest to dry of the trade routes).

it also depends on how much rain comes down.

the rule for sandstone in general is that if the ground at the base of the crag is wet or damp, the rock is still fragile and should not be climbed.

given how soft Zion rock is compared to Red Rock- if the forecast keeps up and the rain keeps falling, i'd be inclined to wait until Tues or Wed for a route in full sun, and probably a day or two longer for anything that doesnt get all day sun. But thats all guesswork- it totally depends on how much rain comes down and how warm/windy/sunny it is afterwards.


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By SLippy
Nov 21, 2013

"Masturbation" Trip Report
Quick approach. Pleasurable face climbing. Much grunting ensued. Inspiring top out with a relaxing view. Easy downclimb. 2 stars- it is just too short to deserve more.
Now if I could just jump on the more difficult route down the road-"Intercourse". I heard you have to project for quite a while to get the send.


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By Ashinynickel
Nov 21, 2013

I am headed to Red Rock tomorrow and it looks like I will have to wait a few days to climb there.

Anyone have any experience climbing at Arrow Canyon? There is a free guide for it online and it looks like there are some caves there that might stay dry (although this will probably mean a lot of hang dogging for me). Should I get the Islands in the Sky guidebook or will the free guide be enough? Any beta for Arrow would be appreciated.


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By Josh Janes
Nov 22, 2013

Based on personal experience and current weather Arrow would be very unpleasant. Possibly even flooded. Island in the Sky mentions Arrow but your Dr. Topo thing is marginally better.

Even if it were to stop raining right now and the sun were to come out (which it's not) it will still be days before things dry out. Sorry about your bad luck, but were I in your position I'd be looking at J Tree or Bishop weather.


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By Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Nov 22, 2013
Flatirons

This might be a dumb question, but regarding climbing on wet sandstone -- what if its just frozen snow on top that hasn't melted yet. Assuming you're climbing underneath an overhang (i.e. there's no snow on the actual holds) you should be okay right?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2013

sandstone is a giant sponge. in a light rain, sure, you can climb on steep stuff. after almost an inch of rain? not so much. please stay off the rock until the ground is dry.

I know it sucks that people have planned trips and want to climb, but the rock here is a precious resource and we want it to stay intact for generations to come, something that won't happen if people climb on wet rock. we've already had many routes get harder or easier due to breakage in recent years due to people not willing to wait because it would ruin their trip.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Nov 22, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life

Probably the most important thing to remember is that, if you decide to ignore all the advice and climb on wet rock anyway and some well-meaning local gently approaches you and suggests that you stay off the rock until it's dry, you should DEFINITELY go apeshit and tell him to go screw himself because you came here to climb dammit!!


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By Daniel Gloven
From Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2013
<ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Unused* poop tube</li></ul>

Added these to the haul bag. Should be good, right?





(but no I actually changed my plans and am super sad)


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By Ashinynickel
Nov 25, 2013

Josh Janes wrote:
Based on personal experience and current weather Arrow would be very unpleasant. Possibly even flooded. Island in the Sky mentions Arrow but your Dr. Topo thing is marginally better. Even if it were to stop raining right now and the sun were to come out (which it's not) it will still be days before things dry out. Sorry about your bad luck, but were I in your position I'd be looking at J Tree or Bishop weather.


I decided to give Arrow a shot today while waiting for Red Rock to dry. It was quite pleasant! Everything was dry save for an occasional puddle near the base of the wall. The approach to swamp cave was absurdly muddy though.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 25, 2013

Ashinynickel wrote:
I decided to give Arrow a shot today while waiting for Red Rock to dry. It was quite pleasant! Everything was dry save for an occasional puddle near the base of the wall. The approach to swamp cave was absurdly muddy though.


Thank you so much for choosing somewhere else to climb today. Those of us who cherish Red Rock for the amazing resource at is truly appreciate it.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 26, 2013
Thumbtastic

Josh Janes wrote:
Too lazy to read an FAQ? Or buy a guidebook? And you expect other people to respond (i.e. do the work for you)? Interesting. Here are some "other suggestions": Television. Slot Machines. Masturbation. X Box 360.


^^^^^THIS is funny. I would add "electric scissors"....


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