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First time at red rocks this weekend- advice

Original Post
Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Hi,
I have skimmed the FAQ and didn't see what i wanted. Too lazy to search further so...
First time at red rock this weekend from sunday to tuesday. I realize it will probably be busy everywhere but looking to boulder and sport climb 10s and 11s. I know there is a lot of good trad but going to zion for the rest of the week so i want to save trad for then.
Any suggestions on itineraries and/or destinations? The black corridor looks cool but i assume it will be packed? Odds I can get a camp site? Other suggestions?

JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

It is currently raining in Red Rock, probably not the best weekend to climb there.

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

i've never been turned away at the CG there. the most that has happened is that the host says official sites are full, just walk 30 ft out into the desert and pitch camp.

i wouldnt climb there either this weekend. something about that super strong sandstone + rain....

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388
mountainproject.com/scripts…

Have you seen the "Best Routes for YOU" feature?
Try it sometime... I use it all the time.
W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Please avoid Red Rock this weekend. It is currently raining here and is forecasted to rain more, and more heavily, throughout the duration of the weekend. Please allow 24+ hours for the sandstone here to dry out.

In addition, as it relates to Zion, the sandstone there is a bit softer than what we have here at Red Rock - and by virtue of that takes longer to dry out...also highly advisable to avoid that during and immediately following a storm cycle.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Too lazy to read an FAQ? Or buy a guidebook? And you expect other people to respond (i.e. do the work for you)? Interesting.

Here are some "other suggestions":

Television.
Slot Machines.
Masturbation.
X Box 360.

Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Didn't know about that feature Darren. Thanks. I'll make sure to avoid climbing this weekend. I have a guidebook-just looking for peoples personal opinions- specifically as relating to crowds.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851
Mostafa Noori · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 601
Josh Janes wrote:Too lazy to read an FAQ? Or buy a guidebook? And you expect other people to respond (i.e. do the work for you)? Interesting. Here are some "other suggestions": Television. Slot Machines. Masturbation. X Box 360.
tele vision mountainproject.com/v/tele-…

slot machine mountainproject.com/v/slot-…

The beta for josh's suggestions...although as far as masturbation and xbox360 those you might have to consult someone else for that beta.

...but ya its raining so no climbing
Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks for the beta Mostafa. I asked my dad for beta on those other two. I'll post a trip report after.

Daniel Gloven · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 320
Weston L wrote:In addition, as it relates to Zion, the sandstone there is a bit softer than what we have here at Red Rock - and by virtue of that takes longer to dry out...also highly advisable to avoid that during and immediately following a storm cycle.
Weston L (and others who are more familiar with Utah sandstone), let's say theoretically that I was hoping to get on a wall in Zion on Monday or Tuesday next week (and booked a flight awhile back). Should I scratch the entire trip, or would Zion be climbable it doesn't rain for most of Sunday? I need to leave Zion by Thanksgiving so my climbing window is the 25th to the 27th.

I obviously don't want to do anything unsafe, or worse, damage the rock.
Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

"Masturbation" Trip Report
Quick approach. Pleasurable face climbing. Much grunting ensued. Inspiring top out with a relaxing view. Easy downclimb. 2 stars- it is just too short to deserve more.
Now if I could just jump on the more difficult route down the road-"Intercourse". I heard you have to project for quite a while to get the send.

Nicholas L · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190

I am headed to Red Rock tomorrow and it looks like I will have to wait a few days to climb there.

Anyone have any experience climbing at Arrow Canyon? There is a free guide for it online and it looks like there are some caves there that might stay dry (although this will probably mean a lot of hang dogging for me). Should I get the Islands in the Sky guidebook or will the free guide be enough? Any beta for Arrow would be appreciated.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Based on personal experience and current weather Arrow would be very unpleasant. Possibly even flooded. Island in the Sky mentions Arrow but your Dr. Topo thing is marginally better.

Even if it were to stop raining right now and the sun were to come out (which it's not) it will still be days before things dry out. Sorry about your bad luck, but were I in your position I'd be looking at J Tree or Bishop weather.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

This might be a dumb question, but regarding climbing on wet sandstone -- what if its just frozen snow on top that hasn't melted yet. Assuming you're climbing underneath an overhang (i.e. there's no snow on the actual holds) you should be okay right?

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Probably the most important thing to remember is that, if you decide to ignore all the advice and climb on wet rock anyway and some well-meaning local gently approaches you and suggests that you stay off the rock until it's dry, you should DEFINITELY go apeshit and tell him to go screw himself because you came here to climb dammit!!

Daniel Gloven · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 320

Added these to the haul bag. Should be good, right?





(but no I actually changed my plans and am super sad)
Nicholas L · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190
Josh Janes wrote:Based on personal experience and current weather Arrow would be very unpleasant. Possibly even flooded. Island in the Sky mentions Arrow but your Dr. Topo thing is marginally better. Even if it were to stop raining right now and the sun were to come out (which it's not) it will still be days before things dry out. Sorry about your bad luck, but were I in your position I'd be looking at J Tree or Bishop weather.
I decided to give Arrow a shot today while waiting for Red Rock to dry. It was quite pleasant! Everything was dry save for an occasional puddle near the base of the wall. The approach to swamp cave was absurdly muddy though.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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