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First time at J Tree

Original Post
Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Im looking for recommendations, im overwhelmed by the amount of areas. I lead up to 5.9 sport and just started trad climbing (I have about a half rack). Any ideas for my first time there? Im not worried about approach times or crowds, but the less busy the better for us lol

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Jacob,

The ratings at Joshua Tree are stiff - be forewarned! It's a great climbing area.

I suggest you get a guidebook. This one provides a sampling of many of the classics in your (and my) range. It's a great book with detailed approach beta, sun/shade info, etc.

amazon.com/The-Trad-Guide-J…

If you want more off-the-beaten path stuff, and want to do multiple climbs in one area, get the Miramontes or Vogel guidebooks. The climbing store in Joshua Tree, Nomad Ventures, carries guidebooks, as well as anything else you'd need for climbing.

Have fun.

Edit: The 60 Trad Climbs book is going to require a full rack (at least singles and preferably doubles). There are many routes where you can scramble to the top to set up a toprope, so read the descent beta for the route you desire. If you only want sport or trad bolted lines, you will need one of the other guidebooks. Joshua Tree is primarily a trad area.

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Thanks a lot for the info :)

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,402

it's been couple of weeks into spring break right now. Hidden Valley and Ryan campgrounds (the two most popular and convenient in the park) are jam packed not just over the wknds but during the week as well. there'll be the few miraculous vacating sites in the mornings per usual, but likely fewer to go around for the many many more who rely on getting a site that way. likely this way for a few more weeks. one could luck out despite all that, of course. just a headsup so you know what you might be getting into

FYI, many of the routes in that 60 Trad guide gets super crowded, funneled there by that book in part, and also inevitable anyway. most "classic" 5.9's and under close to the parking are usu like that, here at JTree, or RR near you, or just about any other popular destination nowadays

speaking of which, RR must be overwhelming too. so many trad and sport and bouldering areas. big panic attack and shortness of breaths, affecting many. and Yosmite, another colossal overwhelmer from hell. ugh, i'm like you, man. mentioning them already makes me nauseous

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Red Rock is like my backyard, I know it so well it doesn't feel overwhelming at all lol. I had a feeling J tree was gonna be packed, any advise on the best place to camp for freelike on BLM land somewhere?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Jacob,

This link is for BLM parking near J-Tree:

nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

This writeup has a lot of good info:

happiegrrrl.hubpages.com/hu…

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,402

there are add'l campgrounds, as linked above, at Jumbo, Belle, and White Tank, unlike RR's lone big one. they're located more toward the east side of the park tho, with less abundant concentrated quality climbing, but def worth checking those out too if you end up out that way. Indian Cove via its separate north entrance has climbing in and around the campground, but usu even hotter there if already hot on main side of park. some make do in a pinch at the BLM lakebed or other car bivvy spots in or near town until they score a campsite inside the park

we were surprised how fully full HV and Ryan got this past Wed and Thu, but figured prob still some open sites at Jumbo and beyond. not sure about that for the wknds tho, when it's this crazy packed

Nate KSD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

Anyone going to be at Jtree this weekend? I might be up there solo and would be down to trade belays on TR/Sport or even some trad if you're crazy enough to want to lead something with nuts (only trad pro ive got)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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