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 ADVANCED
First Tier

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Sport, The T 
Body Count S 
Catch and Release S 
Iron Maiden S 
Marquis de Sade S 
Mists of Avalon S 
Sex Slave T,S 
Slayer S 
Spare Rib T 
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 
Sword In The Stone S 
Tunnel of Love T 

First Tier  


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Location: 39.99885, -105.4124 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,625
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The First Tier of Avalon lies a short distance above the creek. It is home to some good sport routes, including Sword In The Stone (10), Mists of Avalon (10a), Iron Maiden (9+), Slayer (10b), Body Count (11a), and Marquis de Sade (10d).

The First Tier is split into a lower (R) and upper (L) level.

Routes on the lower level, from R->L (as you approach from the trail):

J. Catch and Release, 12, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Arete on the R.
I. Mists of Avalon, 10-, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Face to roof and slab.
H. Spare Rib, 10, 1p, gear. Face to roof & crack.
G. Sword In The Stone, 9, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Face to an arete.

Walk up a path to the left about 100' to get to the upper level of the First Tier.

Routes on the upper level, from L->R:

A. Sex Slave, 10, 1p, 55', gear & 4 bolts. Thin crack & face.
B. Iron Maiden, 9+, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. R-facing corner & roofs.
C. Slayer, 10, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Blocky bulge to roof.
D. Body Count, 11-, 1p, 60', 6 bolts. Steep face to roof.
E. Marquis de Sade, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Steep face to thin crack & roof.
F1. Tunnel of Love, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. R-angling hand crack to chockstone tunnel.
F2. The Anti-Sport, 10+, 1p, 100', gear.
G. The Sport Climber's Demise, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.

Continuing up the path left of Sex Slave will take you up to the Second Tier, at the left side of Tarot Wall.

See the Beta Photo for details.

Getting There 

If you crossed the creek at the Tyrolean, go a short way up the talus field, and angle left to the base of the wall.

If you waded across the creek downstream from the Tyrolean, take a path up and right through the woods to the base of the wall near The Mists of Avalon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Tier:
Iron Maiden   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sword In The Stone   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mists of Avalon   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Spare Rib   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Marquis de Sade   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Anti-Sport   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Sport Climber's Demise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Body Count   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in First Tier

Featured Route For First Tier
Mists of Avalon.  The crux is at the third and fourth bolts.

Mists of Avalon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : First Tier
Mists of Avalon is on the First Tier of Avalon. Cross the creek, hike the big talus to the lowest point of rock and walk left about 20' along the base on a dirt path to the first large tree. Above is a roof. The arete above the right side of the roof is bolted and is Catch and Release. Mists of Avalon climbs easy blocky rock right of a right facing-corner to the roof. Climb easy rock past two bolts to a dirty ledge below an A-shaped notch in the roof. [Eds. there are some fractured holds here, be...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of First Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon, showing most of the major features. <br /> <br />Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.
BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

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