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First Tier

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Sport, The T 
Body Count S 
Catch and Release S 
Iron Maiden S 
Marquis de Sade S 
Mists of Avalon S 
Sex Slave T,S 
Slayer S 
Spare Rib T 
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 
Sword In The Stone S 
Tunnel of Love T 

First Tier Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.99885, -105.4124 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,017
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
This Afternoon

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BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


The First Tier of Avalon lies a short distance above the creek. It is home to some good sport routes, including Sword In The Stone (10), Mists of Avalon (10a), Iron Maiden (9+), Slayer (10b), Body Count (11a), and Marquis de Sade (10d).

The First Tier is split into a lower (R) and upper (L) level.

Routes on the lower level, from R->L (as you approach from the trail):

J. Catch and Release, 12, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Arete on the R.
I. Mists of Avalon, 10-, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Face to roof and slab.
H. Spare Rib, 10, 1p, gear. Face to roof & crack.
G. Sword In The Stone, 9, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Face to an arete.

Walk up a path to the left about 100' to get to the upper level of the First Tier.

Routes on the upper level, from L->R:

A. Sex Slave, 10, 1p, 55', gear & 4 bolts. Thin crack & face.
B. Iron Maiden, 9+, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. R-facing corner & roofs.
C. Slayer, 10, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Blocky bulge to roof.
D. Body Count, 11-, 1p, 60', 6 bolts. Steep face to roof.
E. Marquis de Sade, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Steep face to thin crack & roof.
F1. Tunnel of Love, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. R-angling hand crack to chockstone tunnel.
F2. The Anti-Sport, 10+, 1p, 100', gear.
G. The Sport Climber's Demise, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.

Continuing up the path left of Sex Slave will take you up to the Second Tier, at the left side of Tarot Wall.

See the Beta Photo for details.

Getting There 

If you crossed the creek at the Tyrolean, go a short way up the talus field, and angle left to the base of the wall.

If you waded across the creek downstream from the Tyrolean, take a path up and right through the woods to the base of the wall near The Mists of Avalon.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Tier:
Sword In The Stone   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mists of Avalon   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Marquis de Sade   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Sport Climber's Demise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Anti-Sport   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Body Count   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Tier

Featured Route For First Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Sex Slave.  The crux is getting to the second bolt...

Sex Slave 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : First Tier
This is one of the dirtier routes on the First Tier, but it has hard climbing to start (but not much fun for me) and easier but fun climbing at the top. In the middle it was dodging moss and bushes.Sex Slave is the leftmost route on the upper level of the First Tier. It starts at a big tree 15 feet left of a large flat block embedded in the ground.Getting past the initial irregular and flared finger crack is the crux. Place one or two finger-sized cams, clip the bolt, and get established on the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of First Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Avalon, showing most of the major features.  Note:...
BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

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