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 ADVANCED
First Tier

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Sport, The 
Body Count 
Catch and Release 
Iron Maiden 
Marquis de Sade 
Mists of Avalon 
Sex Slave 
Slayer 
Spare Rib 
Sport Climber's Demise, The 
Sword In The Stone 
Tunnel of Love 

First Tier 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.

Note:...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The First Tier of Avalon lies a short distance above the creek. It is home to some good sport routes, including Sword In The Stone (10), Mists of Avalon (10a), Iron Maiden (9+), Slayer (10b), Body Count (11a), and Marquis de Sade (10d).

The First Tier is split into a lower (R) and upper (L) level.

Routes on the lower level, from R->L (as you approach from the trail):

J. Catch and Release, 12, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Arete on the R.
I. Mists of Avalon, 10-, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Face to roof and slab.
H. Spare Rib, 10, 1p, gear. Face to roof & crack.
G. Sword In The Stone, 9, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Face to an arete.

Walk up a path to the left about 100' to get to the upper level of the First Tier.

Routes on the upper level, from L->R:

A. Sex Slave, 10, 1p, 55', gear & 4 bolts. Thin crack & face.
B. Iron Maiden, 9+, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. R-facing corner & roofs.
C. Slayer, 10, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Blocky bulge to roof.
D. Body Count, 11-, 1p, 60', 6 bolts. Steep face to roof.
E. Marquis de Sade, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Steep face to thin crack & roof.
F1. Tunnel of Love, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. R-angling hand crack to chockstone tunnel.
F2. The Anti-Sport, 10+, 1p, 100', gear.
G. The Sport Climber's Demise, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.

Continuing up the path left of Sex Slave will take you up to the Second Tier, at the left side of Tarot Wall.

See the Beta Photo for details.


Getting There 

If you crossed the creek at the Tyrolean, go a short way up the talus field, and angle left to the base of the wall.

If you waded across the creek downstream from the Tyrolean, take a path up and right through the woods to the base of the wall near The Mists of Avalon.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Tier:
Sword In The Stone   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mists of Avalon   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Spare Rib   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Marquis de Sade   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Anti-Sport   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Sport Climber's Demise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Body Count   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in First Tier

Featured Route For First Tier
Iron Maiden.  Cruxes at the second bolt and the roof above the fifth bolt.

Iron Maiden 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : First Tier
Iron Maiden is the second route from the left on the First Tier. Start 10' right of Sex Slave by a short, right-facing corner capped with a small roof. Climb the right-facing corner, step left around the little roof, and continue up the face past two more roofs to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of First Tier Slideshow Add Photo
The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
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