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Candlelight Buttress
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First Responder T 
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First Responder 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jonny Woodward, Darrell Hensel (Oct '07)
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Bryan G on Aug 27, 2011

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Description 

From the flat Center Terrace walk left and start climbing the hill along the base. Look for Famous Authors, which begins up a left facing corner. First Responder begins just to the right, at a right facing flake.

Pitch 1: Climb a chossy flake about 10 feet then reach out right and clip the first bolt. Traverse right across the blank slab to reach steeper and more featured rock. Head straight up on good knobs, pulling over a small bulge (10a+) to reach lower angle terrain. Wander up past another couple bolts to the anchor. There are several bolted anchors around here and it can be confusing trying to figure out which is the right one.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up along a line of bolts, just to the left of a water-streak. This pitch and the next are considerably easier than the first.

Pitch 3: It gets a bit more runout here which isn't necessarily scary because the climbing is quite easy, however it does make it much more difficult to spot the next bolt and where you are going. Just keep climbing up and follow the path of least resistance.

From the top make 3 raps with one 70m rope. I recall some of these being close to 35m, so pay attention to your ends.


Protection 

8 or 9 quick-draws should be plenty.



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