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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Select Route:
2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Northeast Corner T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,019
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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SE face.

Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin this route from the top of the East Bench (see East Bench Dihedral.) The First Pinnacle forms the northern inside wall of the Amphitheatre.

An old bolt will be evident when looking at the steep face leading up to the summit of the First Pinnacle. Step across the chimney and make a few committing moves up a short pillar. Clip the bolt, and head up the obvious scoop to the summit. I started on jugs to the right, then moved left a bit, but whatever works. Tingly exposure beneath your heels... This would be a 3 star route, but it's only 30 feet long.

Descend to the West Bench via the 4th class West Ridge, or rappel (2 ropes?)

Rossiter calls this route the Southeast Arete.

Per Tony B: this is a good route for taking beginners on. Climb the East Bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East Bench. Stem up and right to reach the broad groove which faces SW. Climb up and into this, clipping a single bolt on the way to the top.

(Edit) The old rusted anchor and has been replaced.

It's a nice pitch, and is not too much independent climbing, but still has exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.

Eds. This is two submissions onto the original submission's page to avoid confusion.

Protection 

Standard Flatiron rack, plus one quickdraw.

Per Tony B: a few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes, and 1 QD for clipping a nasty, old bolt.


Comments on SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) Add Comment
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By Danny
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is pretty nice combined with the dihedral route. The description mentions a "nasty old bolt". I second that. This bolt is pretty ugly and rusted. However, there is good pro for most of it. Also, the slings on the east bench seemed to be pretty sun baked and old. Rapping off the big bolt at the far east end of the chimney might be safer.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

Not the longest line here but the most spectacular. Watch somebody do this from the the second pinnacle. It's longer than it sounds because it's P2 of a link-up.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 30, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

A very worthwhile climb for a n00b. Definitely gives a beginner a taste of exposure.
By Wayne
From: Superior, CO
Jun 25, 2012

The bolt was replaced last year. I was with Ron Olsen who actually replaced it, and the old one was a 1 inch long, 1/4 inch bolt!
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Looking back over the years, this may have been my first roped climb! That was April,1959!
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 23, 2015

mountainproject.com/v/first-pi...

Isn't this the same route?
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