First in Flight  5.11a R

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Type:  Trad FA:  Dougald MacDonald New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Dougald MacDonald on Apr 21, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the line below the direct rappel from the summit of the First (to the north). I'm sure people have TR'd it many times, but I asked the usual suspects and couldn't locate anyone who had led it before. Anyway, it's an excellent pitch, so I thought I'd describe it. If there's earlier history to this one, I'd love to hear it.

The line starts up overhanging rock, trending left, near the far right side of the north face. You're aiming for two, parallel, right-leaning corners a few feet apart and about halfway up the face. A #3 Camalot and an ancient fixed pin protect the initial moves. From a decent rest, place gear in the corners above and then launch up about 12 or 15 feet of strenuous finger crack, using both corners. A fairly committing move leads to a good rest at a break. From here, I led up and left on unprotected 5.8 face climbing and eventually reached the easy ground below the summit. It might also be possible to move right after the crux -- maybe there's pro out there too. The way I went was reasonably secure but serious.

Many people who could climb this route probably don't because they've just soloed the First and don't have a rope or gear. But if you end up there with a rope, you should try it. It's very easy to toprope the line from the summit anchors with a 60-meter rope.

Protection 

Bring a #3 Camalot or equivalent for down low and a bunch of small wires for the crux.