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Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" 
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Decider, The 
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Eiffel Tower 
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First Impressions 
Footloose 
Free Up The Weed 
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Headline 
Herbal Essence 
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Misunderestimate 
Naked Hedge, The 
Natural Selection 
Nordwand, The 
Persistent Vegetative State 
Radometer in the Red Zone 
Smoke on the Water 
Tierra Del Fuego 
Too! 
Trouthead 
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
Tsunami Of Charisma 
Unknown 
Unsorted Routes:

First Impressions 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 1996.
Page Views: 7,117
Submitted By: Mark Wyss on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (241)
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Little six year old Mazzi Childers climbing the ul...

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Description 

Take the bolt line that travels just left of an orange streak that passes up a small left-facing dihedral. The crux is exiting the dihedral and getting over the rounded top of the rock.


Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. It shares an anchor with Footloose.



Photos of First Impressions Slideshow Add Photo
Dean says "This is a great and pumpy climb".
Dean says "This is a great and pumpy climb".
@ the anchor OR on the moon?
@ the anchor OR on the moon?
Mazzi Childers on her new favorite climb "First Impressions-(5.9+)" on the Little Eiger.  Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.
Mazzi Childers on her new favorite climb "First Im...
I love Photoshop. Nick, uh, soloing Eifel Tower in Clear Creek.
I love Photoshop. Nick, uh, soloing Eifel Tower in...
Nick at the crux of "[First Impressions]."
Nick at the crux of "[First Impressions]."
Peter Dillon stemmed out just below the crux.
Peter Dillon stemmed out just below the crux.
Mazzi Childers on "First Impressions-(5.9+)."  The Little Eiger.  Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.
Mazzi Childers on "First Impressions-(5.9+)." The...
1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. <br />2. The Nordwand, 11b/c. <br />3. Too!, 12a. <br />4. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11b/c. <br />5. Eiger Direct, 11d. <br />6. First Impressions, 9+. <br />7. Footloose, 10a.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.
2. The Nordwand, 11b/...
First Impressions.  The crux is at the top of the corner; you can move right or go straight up.  In either case, the move seems more like 10a than 9.
BETA PHOTO: First Impressions. The crux is at the top of the ...
Near the top.
Near the top.
Topping out.
Topping out.
Chris Lockyer leading the route - at the dihedral section
Chris Lockyer leading the route - at the dihedral ...
Joanne Robertson on her very first lead.
Joanne Robertson on her very first lead.
Eva in the dihedral.
Eva in the dihedral.
Comments on First Impressions Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 19, 2012
By Edward Jenner
Jul 18, 2001

Unlike the 5.9 across the river (Vapour trail - Red Slab) this is a good route for beginner 5.9 leaders. It was my first 5.9 lead and I enjoyed it tremendously. The 5.10a next to it (left) is also a safe lead (my first 10a lead).

By Sean Colaroso
Oct 27, 2001

This just might be my favorite climb I have ever done there were a couple of moves that scared me, but I think that is what made it fun.

By Patrick McGaugh
Apr 28, 2002

Watch out for a loose block below the crux. Someone put a big X on it with chalk so it's not hard to spot. Be careful and enjoy.

By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Aug 8, 2002

A really good line! After climbing this a few times and watching others; I am noticing that there is a tendency to go right at the top of the flake and semi-mantle over the lip - this leaves a long reach left to clip the bolt - I toyed and found that the climb can go in a plumb line with the bolts over the upper lip; however, it is a reach to the 2 finger crack for your left with thin feet, but it sets you up to clip at eye level, both moves, either straight up or jog right, gain the lip and are tricky - try it - Great climb, always busy!

By Doug Redosh
Jun 18, 2003

Good line, maybe a little stiff for Clear Creek 5.9. I remember those Red Slab lines as being a bit runout for sport climbs. I tried the crux 3 ways, left is definitely harder, straight up and right a little is the easiest and still allows one to clip the bolt, manteling to the right is not as hard as left, but harder than the center line.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005

On the topo above, the routes are:
7: Footloose (5.10a)
6: First Impressions (5.9)
5: Eiger Direct (5.11d)
4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c)
3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d)
2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c)
1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required)

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A great pitch with lots of good moves, but it's a sandbag at 5.9; the crux at the top of the corner is more like 10a and is tricky to figure out.

By Charlie Fried
From: New York, NY
Jul 16, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Crux felt a lot harder then a 9!
I went right is that the correct way, or did I make it harder for myself?

By Nate Oakes
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I agree with Ron, although I go to the left at the crux instead of to the right or center. I'm told that, if you go right, there's a thin, unmarked crimp that's hard to see. So I can't speak to that variation... but going left is a tough move for me. The dihedral is a blast, long reaches (I'm 5'-10") for big holds.

By Ken McVicker
Jul 17, 2007

Good climb. Starts out with face moves and then you can undercling and side pull or layback up the dihedral. I exited the dihedral to the right. Take your time and you'll find it. There is a small not so obvious crimp for your right hand to get you out. Just find any crystal or nub for the left hand and balance your way out. Smear the feet. Two ballancy moves and you'll be out. The start feels like 5.7 but gets progressively harder. Great warmup route.

By raise
Jun 23, 2008

Great warm up for some of the mid range 10s on this wall. The crux def pushes the typical Clear Ck 5.9 standard. Fun climb.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There is a loose horn about 2/3rds of the way up the flake at the top of the dihedral (is ticked with a X). Use caution if you choose to put weight on it. Otherwise, this is a classic nine dihedral. The crux (direct) is pulling the exposed transfer from good feet (dihedral) over a bulge with a hidden crimp to thin holds. You can also go right to an easier walk up. Great warm-up.

By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Sep 4, 2009

I think the crux is 5.9+ because of the pump factor. Moving thru the dihedral and resting where their is rests still provides a pump which has to be delt with at the crux. For shure a Sandbag 5.9 since it's much harder than "The Unsaid" and about as hard as "Morning Thunder". Just my opinion. Tough but nice climb. Two and a half stars.

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2010

The section at the top of the flake is like a little piece of J-Tree in Clear Creek. Fun route!

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Aug 6, 2011

This is a warm-up route, the crux is 9, just have to think it through.

By PHotY
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

There is no stake in the ground anymore, just recognize it off of the dihedral and bolts that follow under it. Some decently strong 5.9 moves warrant the + if you have not climbed in a while. Little more strength is required for this route than Herbal Essence second route to its left. I will definitely climb this again.

By Alton R.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 19, 2012

I replaced the bottom quicklinks (lowering ones) on Saturday 9/15/2012. The old ones were looking pretty worn out. New ones are bomber 3/8".