First Gully  WI3

1,909 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  WI3- [details] FA:  ?? Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Joe Keyser on Feb 14, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Joe leading the first pitch. Photo by Scott.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This climb is across the valley from Stairway to Heaven, and slightly up the valley about .1 miles. When we climbed it, the road was plowed up to Eureka Gulch (about 1 mile before the climb). In this condition, the approach went easily by branching off to the left right from the car, instead of following tracks right, towards STH. Approaching from this side prevented us from having to slog through the bottom of the valley from the STH approach. We walked quickly beneath a few slopes, but they seemed safe enough. Approach conditions vary I'm sure.

The route is about 4-5 pitches of rolling, lower angled ice. Mostly in the WI3 range, but kept us on our toes since the ice was fresh, and thin in some spots. In the conditions we found, there were sections of steep snow, and alpine ice (frozen snow) between the blue stuff. There appear to be a couple different variations after the first two pitches, all fairly moderate but some thin spots.

Look for slung root systems at the end of pitches 1, and 2, and a frozen in sling (frozen to what?!)/piton anchor at the end of pitch three.

Our slow party of three bailed before the last pitch since one of our party was getting cold. The last pitch did look fun, blue and low angled. But even still, the first few pitches were worth while, very scenic and enjoyable. Very good cruiser of a climb. Nothing too hard, scary, or technical, just good fun, and great views.

Protection 

Several screws, and slings. Bring some rock gear in case the anchors aren't viseable. We used a rock anchor at the end of pitch one and two, but found solid anchors with slings on the way back down.

Toprope Protection 

N/A

Photos of First Gully Slideshow

Add Photo

Jeff following pitch 3, photo by Scott. The pitch...	Second belay. What a nice day!!!	The route from the ground.
Another view of pitch one. Photos by Scott.	BETA PHOTO: Photo showing the route First gully from the base....