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First Flight 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Maurice Reed, Vernon Scarborough, 1980s
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 1, 2007
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route featuring a devious 5.10 roof move on the first pitch and an awesome thin face up high.
1. Climb the standard first pitch by following easy rock up a large, right facing corner. Pull a roof at the weakness and continue up easy ground to a belay in the corner. (100 ft., 5.10c)
OR: traverse hard right at Linn Cove Lullaby's pitch 1 anchors until you reach a fixed thread at the belay (100 ft., 5.9)
2. Make a traverse on nice crimps & tiny feet, passing a couple of old fixed pins backed up w/ TCUs. Pull around the arete and either pull a 5.9 roof or continue on 5.5 ground to a natural belay. (50 ft, 5.11b)

Can be done in one pitch, but clip your early pro long and be prepared for some rope drag.


Location 

This route is located to the right of Linn Cove Lullaby. Look for a large, right-facing corner. Rappel via Boardwalk's anchors.


Protection 

Lots of thin stuff, medium sized gear to back up the belay. A couple of old fixed pins (easily backed up) on the second pitch.



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By Matt Westlake
Oct 12, 2013

Is the 10c variation the same thing as "Nutrasweet"? What's the protection like?