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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) 
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First First 
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First First 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randall Chapman
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-fall
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Rschap on May 27, 2012
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Sarah approaching the crux on First First.

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Description 

First First is a trad route with one bolt at the crux where the crack turns to crap. This bolt as well as the three bolt anchor were placed on lead with a hand drill. Black Bunny Rabbit shares an anchor with this route. This route protects well with gear, but almost no crack technique is required as itís mostly face climbing and easy chimney. Watch out for the cactus.


Location 

It goes up the corner between 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart and Black Bunny Rabbit.


Protection 

One bolt and cams 0.3-#4 BD. A #6 is useful but not necessary.



Photos of First First Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah got thirsty.
Sarah got thirsty.
Sarah pulling the crux on First First.
Sarah pulling the crux on First First.
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By Bryan K.
From: Palisade, CO
May 30, 2012

Looks like the bolt is useful but not necessary?

By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 31, 2012

I would agree if the fall was a little cleaner.