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JHCOB Wall
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Deep Dark Crack T 
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Dust to Dust T 
First East Face T 
Inside Corner T 
Osiris S 
Outside Corner T 
Predissessor T,S 
Ream's Chimney T 
Retrobution S 
Second East Face T 
Spastic Funk T 
Unemployment Line S 
Weed B Gone T 
Weed Killer T 
West Side Water Slide T 
Whiplash S 

First East Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 676
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 25, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: First East Face

Description 

The First East Face is a good route with a great view and decent exposure. Although highly vegetated, the First East Face follows a relatively clean line between a majority of the brush. This line makes for a nice outing climbing a staggered, broken crack system separated by alert face climbing. Watch for loose rock.

Approach- From the parking lot locate a weakness over the talus heading towards the JHCOB wall. Follow this for 200 feet to the base of the formation. Head for the North/East corner, from here continue up over dirt and loose rock to a small alcove just South/East of the Outside Corner.

p1- Begin at the wide crack that separates the shale from the quartzite. Scramble and climb up the wide break over loose and dirty rock to a resting ledge set in a small cove. Build a belay here using a small varied crack system. (65 feet)

p2(a)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow some horizontal cracks and seams aiming right towards the arete. At the corner, join up with a nice splitter finger/hand crack and follow this for about 15 feet to its end. Finish out the short remaining face and build a belay just below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)

p2(b)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow the horizontal cracks coming shy of the arete by about 15 feet. Climb a rather wide and heavily vegetated crack for 20 feet, break right towards a belay below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)

p3- Continue up and traverse left to gain a good, short splitter, climb this to its end keeping right of a large tree and head towards another short and slightly hidden crack. Climb this crack, get onto a face and hit another obvious crack. Run this up and left until coming just short of the top. Finish left at a tree and horizontal crack system. build belay. (80 feet)

Descent- From the final belay, scramble left of the belay and around the corner of the face to an obvious path that reaches the summit. Walk off to the West on a heavily traveled trail towards the shale layer. Scramble down the final gully ending at the geological sign parking lot.

Protection 

A single rack up to a 3 inches, medium stoppers, and a large selection of runners. Double cams in 1" and 2" would be nice, but not necessary if comfortable at the grade. Build your own belays.

Location 

The First East Face is the second, taller, and slightly cleaner face immediately up from and east of the Outside Corner.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The first pitch is awkward, loose and doesn't take pro well. The second pitch improves a bit and the third pitch gets to the good stuff. Final pitch felt like it had a move or two that was harder than 5.7. Bring a large selection of runners and a full set of doubles. No bolted belays or slings. Watch out for loose rock, there's some big pieces waiting to drop.