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First Drytool Ascent of the Naked Edge!!!!
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Apr 1, 2013
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Recently my good friends Noah McKelvin and Phil Wortmann made yet another Colorado climbing historical first by ascending the Naked Edge with ice tools and fruit boots.

All went "free", except for the dodgy second slab pitch where a variation dubbed Naked Steel was established up and right of the main line.

More details and pics soon to follow, but mega Kudos to a visionary first!!!
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points
Apr 1, 2013
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
1st pitch.
1st pitch.
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points
Apr 1, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
is drytooling existing classic gear routes acceptable in CO?

Nice send i suppose...seems rather contrived given conditions look prime to just go rock climbing. Just begs the question why? and the answer is probably why not.
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Apr 1, 2013
The Nose from the road
check the date Mike Mu.
Joined Feb 15, 2007
81 points
Apr 1, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Rock fencer, you just got trolled. Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
209 points
Apr 1, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Eric D wrote:
Rock fencer, you just got trolled.


Man i just got burned LOL...2nd hour of neuroscience is getting to me.
That was good!!!
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Apr 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
totally not shopped... Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 1, 2013
Dave Cummings wrote:
I hope all involved get their ass kicked!, scratching up one of the best and most historical rock climbs in North America! With so much world class ice and mixed climbs in CO whey the fuck are they drytooling the Naked Edge!!!


Just because this is awesome!!
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Apr 1, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Thanks for the shout out Erik. We both wore two Go-Pros, one on our helmets, and one on our right tools. Noah and I are working on a movie of the effort, from our video footage. We want to condense it down to 30 mins and add a gangsta soundtrack. Hopefully it will be ready for ReelRock. phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
664 points
Apr 1, 2013
Gettin in the mood on Left Torpedo tube
Super excited about the movie that's coming soon!!! I've always wanted to do that!! I recently did some dry tooling on some ultra thin classics at Shelf road and it got me thinking about Eldo dry tooling !!!!! This could take climbing to that next realm that we've all been waiting for!!!! I know personally Im getting a little board with climbing as it never seems to change, but I was wrong and I look forward to the future!!!!!! Thanks guys you rock!!!! Trask
From colorado springs, co
Joined Aug 31, 2007
178 points
Apr 1, 2013
Function over fashion.  My newest pair of climbing...
I hope the rock didn't scratch your tools! Legs Magillicutty
From Littleton
Joined May 28, 2002
815 points
Apr 1, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
Epic. J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
881 points
Apr 1, 2013
Don't forget the two heli cams! Those guys were awesome!! Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Apr 1, 2013
erik wellborn wrote:
Recently my good friends Noah McKelvin and Phil Wortmann made yet another Colorado climbing historical first by ascending the Naked Edge with ice tools and fruit boots. All went "free", except for the dodgy second slab pitch where a variation dubbed Naked Steel was established up and right of the main line. More details and pics soon to follow, but mega Kudos to a visionary first!!!



Heard the "variation" bolt ladder was rap bolted. Pretty sick IMO.
Blake Cash
Joined May 27, 2007
195 points
Apr 1, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Topo and beta:

Rack: Bring a few Knifeblades, spectres, and maybe a Lost Arrow or two along with the normal mixed/Eldo rack. Angles work really well on P1.

We scrambled up the ledges to the right of Touch n Go at about M3.

P1: This is the pitch. Perfect hooks, great gear to pound in, but feet to work for. Phil and I thought it went at M5+ or so.

P2/3: Quite the pitch to link up! The crux proved to be the run out slab that seemed to be a bit more runout with tools and pons. Holds ended up being pretty positive, but it took a little work. There was a nice seam above the slab that seemed to except KB's really well. We took that way dubbing it "Naked Steel" Dodgy M6

P4: I thought this was pretty cruxy. The crux was the scary hooks into the Bombay Chimney. I pounded in another pin to back up the old one. Pretty sustained. Perhaps M7? Or we can just call it M6.

P5: Torque the cracks until you make the scary pull into the final crack. There are a couple stein pulls to be had. Maybe M7 too or M6+.

Video will be out soon with more footage. Doesn't get more classic then this!
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Apr 1, 2013
Is it really April already? JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Apr 1, 2013
On Peak 11,300 in the Ruth
Noah8000 wrote:
Topo and beta: Rack: Bring a few Knifeblades, spectres, and maybe a Lost Arrow or two along with the normal mixed/Eldo rack. Angles work really well on P1. We scrambled up the ledges to the right of Touch n Go at about M3. P1: This is the pitch. Perfect hooks, great gear to pound in, but feet to work for. Phil and I thought it went at M5+ or so. P2/3: Quite the pitch to link up! The crux proved to be the run out slab that seemed to be a bit more runout with tools and pons. Holds ended up being pretty positive, but it took a little work. There was a nice seam above the slab that seemed to except KB's really well. We took that way dubbing it "Naked Steel" Dodgy M6 P4: I thought this was pretty cruxy. The crux was the scary hooks into the Bombay Chimney. I pounded in another pin to back up the old one. Pretty sustained. Perhaps M7? Or we can just call it M6. P5: Torque the cracks until you make the scary pull into the final crack. There are a couple stein pulls to be had. Maybe M7 too or M6+. Video will be out soon with more footage. Doesn't get more classic then this!


Hope you left some of the angles in on P1, I get tired of dropping nuts in on that pitch.
tsuji
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 9, 2009
274 points
Apr 1, 2013
Is this an April fools joke or did you guys really do this. I know Noah (Andrew from potrero) and would not put it beyond him to dry tool the classic rock climb. That being said if this did happen I would discourage others from doing it. Lots of dry tooling can scratch the shit out of the rock. There is enough shitty rock in Colorado for dry tooling, so lets leave the classic rock climbs for free climbing. We need to establish were dry tooling is acceptable, and i believe dry tooling on potentially the most classic route in Colorado might not be the best idea. Jack Sparrow
From denver, co
Joined Jun 28, 2010
740 points
Apr 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Jack, just take one look at the picture. It's clearly real, and obviously badass. Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 1, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Jack Sparrow wrote:
Lots of dry tooling can scratch the shit out of the rock.


Scratching helps eliminate all that chalk and polished rock. Makes it more positive for the next ascent.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Apr 1, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Bombay chimney. Good stemming with the pons.
Bombay chimney. Good stemming with the pons.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Apr 1, 2013
me on my redpoint
Jack Sparrow wrote:
Is this an April fools joke or did you guys really do this. I know Noah (Andrew from potrero) and would not put it beyond him to dry tool the classic rock climb. That being said if this did happen I would discourage others from doing it. Lots of dry tooling can scratch the shit out of the rock. There is enough shitty rock in Colorado for dry tooling, so lets leave the classic rock climbs for free climbing. We need to establish were dry tooling is acceptable, and i believe dry tooling on potentially the most classic route in Colorado might not be the best idea.



Happy April fools haha, got me at first, way to stir things up guys.
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Apr 1, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Awesome good April Fool (and explains Noah's request for someone good with Photoshop)!

Who's up for a dry tool ascent of the Bastille Crack?
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Apr 1, 2013
Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
Tool stick in the Bombay Chimney accidently strikes nesting raptor. Climbers to be fined by the State of Colorado. Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
548 points
Apr 1, 2013
I, like Jack Sparrow, have had the pleasure to know and climb with Noah, and anyone knowing him or his enthusiasm for everything would totally accept this as fact at first glance. This kid will climb/drytool/solo anything that seems like a good time. This guy pushed me into my next level of climbing (granted I was still relatively new to climbing). He lost me with all the pin hammering and the go pro video, that's when I believed it was a joke. If it is, all the responses will push him to really do it. Also Jack Sparrow: probably doesn't matter for you about the tool scratches cuz you'll never see them unless someone is going up to set up a top-rope for you!! Joking, but hope you were getting some good leads in while done in Portrero!

Also: Kevin Craig, Noah has most definitely already dry-tooled that bastille crack, pretty sure he did that two weeks after a fractured collar-bone, like I said, this kid is the definition of motivated... (unless you wanna climb in BoCan) :)
Erick Valler
From flat midwest
Joined Feb 28, 2011
16 points
Apr 1, 2013
erik wellborn wrote:
mega Kudos to a visionary first!!!


Kudos to one of the better 4/1 postings over the years.
Paul Davidson
Joined Jan 22, 2007
952 points


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