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First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
82 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Celtic Cracks 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
: Red Rock
: ... : Labyrinth Wall
This route is a beautiful line with a several spectacular pitches. The most notable is the shamrock roof pitch which goes out a huge roof. The pitches above the roof in the groove have similar rock and climbing feel as the wide pitches on Crimson Chrysalis minus the bolts. There are no bolts or fixed anchors on the route. The time to climb the route itself is probably an average grade III but with over 1000ft of approach pitches and a very involved descent you will probably be getting a grade...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 20, 2012
Recovered a stuck rope today near rising moons. PM me if it's yours and I'll get it back to you.