First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Lotta Balls 5.8 NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall
Lotta Balls is a very unique route. Although not that long as far as Red Rocks trad routes go, it has very good climbing. Do the 45 minute approach to the Lotta Balls wall from the First Creek Trailhead.P1) Climb up horizontal crack features on the huge leaning boulder. Once on top of the boulder, climb the left facing corner and up a flake system to a fixed anchor on a small ledge (bolted anchor). (5.6)P2) Climb up the namesake section of the rock. There is no crack here, only a lotta ball...[more] Browse More Classics in NV