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DescriptionFirst Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson. Getting ThereDrive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Berry Nice 5.6 Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet Strawberry Hill Buttress
Doobie Dance 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Romper Room
Romper Room 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Romper Room
Algae on Parade 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 600 feet Romper Room
Sunset Slab Direct 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs
Dodgeball 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet Lotta Balls Wall
Sunset Slab 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs
Lady Luck 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs
Kindergarten Cop 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Romper Room
Lotta Balls 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade II Lotta Balls Wall
Hot Flash 5.8 Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs
Black Magic 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 580 feet Lotta Balls Wall
Bruja's Brew 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Lotta Balls Wall
Lucky Nuts 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Mudterm Area
Mudterm 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Mudterm Area
Celtic Cracks 5.10a/b R Trad, 8 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade IV Labyrinth Wall
Rob Roy 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Alcohol Wall
Gin Ricky 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Alcohol Wall
Mai Tai 5.10+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Alcohol Wall
Straight Shot 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Alcohol Wall
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Lotta Balls 5.8 NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall
Lotta Balls is a very unique route. Although not that long as far as Red Rocks trad routes go, it has very good climbing. Do the 45 minute approach to the Lotta Balls wall from the First Creek Trailhead.P1) Climb up horizontal crack features on the huge leaning boulder. Once on top of the boulder, climb the left facing corner and up a flake system to a fixed anchor on a small ledge (bolted anchor). (5.6)P2) Climb up the namesake section of the rock. There is no crack here, only a lotta ball...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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