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First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
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Black Magic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall
A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face to belay at a single bolt (and gear in crack, or cool natural thread).P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tc...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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