Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
First Creek Canyon
Mountain Hardwear Hibachi 32deg Sleeping Bag

$299.99 25% off

$224.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Patagonia Men's Northwall Pants

$399.00 50% off

$199.50

at Patagonia

32    more...
Sugoi RS Tri Short - Men's

$74.99 49% off

$37.95

at AlsSports

243    more...
Sterling - Fusion Nano Bi Color 9.2

$265.95 24% off

$199.97

at GearX

40    more...
Sugoi Shift Bike Jacket - Men's

$79.99 20% off

$63.99

at AlsSports

   more...
MSR Trail Lite Duo System

$69.99 30% off

$48.99

at AlsSports

2    more...
Demon Backpack - Coal L

$119.95 25% off

$89.96

at CampSaver

1    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Alcohol Wall 
First Creek Slabs 
Labyrinth Wall 
Lotta Balls Wall 
Mudterm Area 
Romper Room 
Schoolyard, The 
Slippery Peak 
Slot Club Wall 
Strawberry Hill Buttress 

First Creek Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 318,333. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Partly Cloudy
84° | 68°
Clear
86° | 59°
Clear
82° | 63°
Mostly Cloudy
91° | 66°
Clear
90° | 61°

A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...

Description 

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.


Getting There 

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Berry Nice   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet   Strawberry Hill Buttress
Doobie Dance   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Romper Room
Romper Room   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Romper Room
Algae on Parade   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 600 feet   Romper Room
Sunset Slab Direct   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Dodgeball   5.7     Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet   Lotta Balls Wall
Sunset Slab   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Lady Luck   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Kindergarten Cop   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Romper Room
Lotta Balls   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade II   Lotta Balls Wall
Hot Flash   5.8     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III   First Creek Slabs
Black Magic   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 580 feet   Lotta Balls Wall
Bruja's Brew   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Lotta Balls Wall
Lucky Nuts   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Mudterm Area
Mudterm   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Mudterm Area
Celtic Cracks   5.10a/b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade IV   Labyrinth Wall
Rob Roy   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Alcohol Wall
Gin Ricky   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   Alcohol Wall
Mai Tai   5.10+ R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Alcohol Wall
Straight Shot   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Alcohol Wall
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Andrei Dorenbaum finishing up p2.

Lotta Balls 5.8  NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall
Lotta Balls is a very unique route. Although not that long as far as Red Rocks trad routes go, it has very good climbing. Do the 45 minute approach to the Lotta Balls wall from the First Creek Trailhead.P1) Climb up horizontal crack features on the huge leaning boulder. Once on top of the boulder, climb the left facing corner and up a flake system to a fixed anchor on a small ledge (bolted anchor). (5.6)P2) Climb up the namesake section of the rock. There is no crack here, only a lotta ball...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of First Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Cool rocks up First Creek.

Cool rocks up First Creek.

The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light from near the road. A long apporach is worth while here. Photo by Tony Bubb, 4/06.

The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...

A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall. <br /> <br />Taken 7/11/07

A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.

Taken 7/11...


Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.

Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.

Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.

Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.

First Creek Walls

BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls

Looking north from the hike in.  Bridge Mtn and Solar Slab are visible.

Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...

South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern flank of Wilson). <br />Some good stuff up there.

South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...

Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into First Creek.

Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...

Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Rising Moons

Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...

Another cool rock formation.

Another cool rock formation.

Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />Taken 9/4/12- Gorgeous out there this time of year!

Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...

Our enchanted desert. : ) <br /> <br />A burro calmly stands amongst a blanket of yellow flowers on 9/4/12. <br /> <br />The beautiful hike into First Creek Canyon.

Our enchanted desert. : )

A burro calmly stands a...


Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up first creek canyon?

Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...


Comments on First Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments