First Buttress Rock Climbing
5.12s and 5.13s, sport area.
Come here on a rainy day in the summer, it is cool and stays pretty dry.
Come here on a hot day in the summer, enjoy the cool breeze, shade and lovey hard lines.
Really a cool crag for progecting in the hot summer months.
Classics include The World's Hardest Five Twelve (5.12a), The World's Hardest Variation (5.12c/d), Sanctified (5.13a), Magnitude (5.11d/12a), and more...
From the parking lot the easiest approach is to walk back the way you drove in and take a left on the first trail that goes down the hill. Follow this trail down to the wooden stairs. After walking down the stairs the fast way is to take the first left down the drainage gulley. This will drop you off at first buttress.
Climbing Season For the Kaymoor area.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Magnatude 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Tarbaby 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
Sanctified 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Tantrum 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For First Buttress
The Haulage 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : First Buttress
The Haulage, or Worlds Hardest Variation as some call it, shares the first four bolts with the Worlds Hardest 5.12. The four bolt opening section has fun climbing between slopers and jugs. The 5.12 section hits you right after the two routes diverge. Follow the left bolt line through a steep section of rock. Move up the 20 degree overhanging wall with a series of dead points and hard lock offs between slopers and edges. The crux sequence is 10 moves long and allows no margin for hes...[more] Browse More Classics in WV