First Buttress Rock Climbing
5.12s and 5.13s, sport area.
Come here on a rainy day in the summer, it is cool and stays pretty dry.
Come here on a hot day in the summer, enjoy the cool breeze, shade and lovey hard lines.
Really a cool crag for progecting in the hot summer months.
Classics include The World's Hardest Five Twelve (5.12a), The World's Hardest Variation (5.12c/d), Sanctified (5.13a), Magnitude (5.11d/12a), and more...
From the parking lot the easiest approach is to walk back the way you drove in and take a left on the first trail that goes down the hill. Follow this trail down to the wooden stairs. After walking down the stairs the fast way is to take the first left down the drainage gulley. This will drop you off at first buttress.
Climbing Season For the Kaymoor area.
Weather station 5.9 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Magnatude 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Tarbaby 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
The Haulage 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Sanctified 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Tantrum 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For First Buttress
The Tantrum 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : First Buttress
Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section dont get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roo...[more] Browse More Classics in WV