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First Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Leather Nun S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 

First Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 2,391
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
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Description 

5.12s and 5.13s, sport area.

Come here on a rainy day in the summer, it is cool and stays pretty dry.

Come here on a hot day in the summer, enjoy the cool breeze, shade and lovey hard lines.

Really a cool crag for progecting in the hot summer months.

Classics include The World's Hardest Five Twelve (5.12a), The World's Hardest Variation (5.12c/d), Sanctified (5.13a), Magnitude (5.11d/12a), and more...

Getting There 

From the parking lot the easiest approach is to walk back the way you drove in and take a left on the first trail that goes down the hill. Follow this trail down to the wooden stairs. After walking down the stairs the fast way is to take the first left down the drainage gulley. This will drop you off at first buttress.

Climbing Season

For the Kaymoor area.

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Oh it's you Bob   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Magnatude   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The World's Hardest Five Twelve   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Tarbaby   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Sanctified   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Tantrum   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress

Sanctified 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
Stick clip the first bolt and then climb out a roof on good jugs to some minor difficulties turning the lip. Rest up on some jugs and then make some easy moves up to the fifth bolt. Clip the fifth bolt from some perfectly sculpted hand sized jugs and then move into the business.The crux boulder problem features some unforgiving crimps on very steep terrain. There is no way to weasel your way around this crux. Bring finger strength and a boulderer's mentality if you hope to have any success o...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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