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First Buttress

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Baby Face / Middle Wall 
Big Roof, The 
Left Hand 
Parking Lot Wall 
Sun Deck 
Upper Wall, The 

First Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.72589, -106.77013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,967
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003
Forecast:
Tonight

49°
Sunday

76° | 48°
Monday

79° | 48°
Tuesday

79° | 48°
Wednesday

78° | 48°
Thursday

74° | 48°
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The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.

Description 

The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',12],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Kindergarten Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Left Hand
Tony's Tango   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Left Hand
The Jackal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sun Deck
Aphrodite   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Upper Wall
Left Hand Mantel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Sun Deck
Left Hand Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Left Hand
Air Conditioner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Hand
Zig Zag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sun Deck
Baby Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Left Hand
Taylor Made   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Left Hand
Singapore Sling   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   The Upper Wall
Oh Mama Mama   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   Sun Deck
Maria's Farewell   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Upper Wall
Hurtin' Fer Certain.   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Sun Deck
Whiskey Crack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Sun Deck
Question of Balance   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Fine Whine   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Double Time at Sue's Place   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Big Roof
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Whiskey Crack - the Tom Pulaski 5.10 testpiece.

Whiskey Crack 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Gunnison : ... : Sun Deck
Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of First Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hangin' at Harmels with some fine folk.
The Hangin' at Harmels with some fine folk.

Comments on First Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
Apr 9, 2008
Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 9, 2008
AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss.
By John Peterson
Apr 9, 2008
Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!".
By phil broscovak
Apr 10, 2008
Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 10, 2008
Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company!

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