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First Buttress
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Baby Face / Middle Wall 
Big Roof, The 
Left Hand 
Parking Lot Wall 
Sun Deck 
Upper Wall, The 

First Buttress 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003

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The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.

Description 

The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Buttress:
Tony's Tango   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Left Hand
The Jackal   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Sun Deck
Aphrodite   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Upper Wall
Left Hand Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   Left Hand
Dunn's Dihedral   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   The Upper Wall
Gymnastics   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Upper Wall
Zig Zag   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Sun Deck
Air Conditioner   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Left Hand
Kathy's Corner   5.10a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Upper Wall
Sasafrass   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   The Upper Wall
Taylor Made   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Left Hand
Singapore Sling   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   The Upper Wall
Oh Mama Mama   5.10c     Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet, Grade II   Sun Deck
Maria's Farewell   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   The Upper Wall
Whiskey Crack   5.10c/d     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Sun Deck
Corky's Rumpet   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Upper Wall
Question of Balance   5.11     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Fine Whine   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Christine's Dream   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   The Upper Wall
Double Time at Sue's Place   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Big Roof
Browse More Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Two views of Question of Balance taken by Greg Phillips in the Eighties.

Question of Balance 5.11  CO : Gunnison : ... : Baby Face / Middle Wall
Question of Balance is a very appropriately named route that goes up the obvious rightward angling crack system on the beautiful smooth slab to the right of the prominent Air Conditioner corner. This is a fantastic climb offering steep (thankfully just under vertical) relentlessly thin crack and face climbing from start to finish. Question of Balance is most often top roped but it's real greatness is as a test piece trad lead. The route gets harder each move that you work up. The gear while some...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on First Buttress Add Comment
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By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Apr 9, 2008

Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 9, 2008

AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss.

By John Peterson
Apr 9, 2008

Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!".

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Apr 10, 2008

Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 10, 2008

Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company!