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Gallatin Tower
Routes Sorted
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Bowling for Buicks S 
Dagger, The T 
First Best T 
Generation X T,S 
Guide Route T 
India Ink T,S 
Orange Crack T 
Soft in the Middle T,S 
Spare Tire T,S 
Standard Route T 
Ten Pin S 
Thing In Between T 
Tigger T 
Top Heavy T,S 

First Best 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Brian Leo, Steve White, 70s?
Page Views: 1,738
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

Another classic pitch, one of the best cracks in GC.
p1- Facey moves bring you to a bulge Drop a small nut in a crack above, pull moves, clip a pin, and rally up the corner to a ledge. 70', .10-


Location 

The great-looking corner right of the Standard Route. P1 ends at a rap anchor shared with Thing in Between and Tigger. Single rope rap here or continue up Tigger/variations to the top.


Protection 

Singles, from small to a #2 camalot. My foggy memory seems to recall a possible #3 camalot placement near the top of the corner, but I can't say for sure.



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By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jul 23, 2009

There is no longer a fixed pin on this route.

By W.S.
From: Montana
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is no longer a fixed pin, but if you hurry you might find a stuck TCU about a third of the way up. Not ours, and we didn't succeed in getting it out. Great climb. Like the description says, there is a possible #3 placement towards the top, but it's not necessary because that's the easiest part and there are other options for pro.

By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 22, 2012

Fun climb! A little stressful getting off the ground. The crux is at the bottom above the talus that you are going to hit if you blow it. A couple of nut placements were very key to doing this climb safely.

By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 30, 2014

Awesome but shallow .4 placement right at the roof above the ground will help. Otherwise, found this pretty tenuous but classic.

There's a big and completely loose block about halfway up, but is luckily cammed fully in the crack. Ends up being a great jug and a good--if somewhat shifty-- foot.

Good nut placements are key, as the above posters have said.