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Holden flies up the variable chimney and stemming ...
This remarkable route chimneys and stems between the inside of the Arrowhead flake and the main face. Varies from 2+ to maybe 5 feet wide. Great position and continuous climbing make this a classic. Rappel 90+ feet from bolts down the outside face of the flake. A little runnout between the bolts, but you are always in a secure position, even if moving up can be strenuous at times.
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap
BETA PHOTO: The massive Arrowhead Flake, The Last Stand heads ...
Gregory Turner Stepping and Stemming up Firewater ...
BETA PHOTO: 6ft. below first Bolt
Richard Shore in the Firewater Chimney 5.10b
|Comments on Firewater Chimney
Apr 23, 2006
What a wild and distinctive route! The whole Arrowhead is such a excellent feature.
Third bolt is in a very odd position, but overall as Randy's sez, its all there.
|By Bryan G|
Jan 12, 2009
Classic! There isn't a 5.10 move in it, but the climbing is very sustained with some good rests here and there. It's mostly wide and airy, with some tighter, more secure climbing climbing at the top. Excellent rock quality too.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
May 27, 2010
Wow! This is one way sweet climb. Airy, scary, and runout. I thought the crux was past the 4th bolt, but the entire climb was out there. Well worth the hike!
|By Phil Esra|
Dec 10, 2010
Much harder at 5'6" than at 5'9"+
|By Josh Golden Eagle|
From: Portland, OR
Mar 6, 2011
Is this sport, trad or mixed? The title says trad. The comments say 6 bolts.
|By Bryan G|
Mar 11, 2011
Well you don't need anything but quickdraws if that's what your asking. But I have no idea if the first ascent was done ground up or top down. It would be interesting to find out though. It would take calves of steel to hold some of the stems long enough to drill.
In any case, I wouldn't go into it with any expectations of it being a "sport climb". It's not quite "R" but it's guaranteed to get your heart pumping.
|By Richard Shore|
Nov 5, 2012
At 6'3", I was able to straight leg chimney nearly the entire climb, stemming wide for only two or three moves. This is probably the easiest 5.10b in the park, if you know how to chimney and have the leg strength to endure the hour-long approach. As much as I hate to downgrade a route, I'd have to uprate 100 others if this is really.10b.
I'll give it the ambiguous "5.9+"