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 ADVANCED
Eavesdown Docks
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Alliance, The 
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Bushwhacked 
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Captain Hammer 
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Captain Tight Pants 
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Damage My Calm 
Firefly 
Jubal 
Oh Captain! My Captain! 
Out of Gas 
Out to the Black 
Shindig 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 
Too Pretty to Die  

Firefly 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
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Perin Blanchard near the crux on Firefly....
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

70m Rope Required



A steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section).

From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top ledge, and from there it's another ten feet or so to the chains.

Note that at the tenth bolt you keep heading up and slightly right rather than left onto The Alliance.

70m Rope Required


Location 

The right of two lines that are bracketed by large trees at the tallest part of the wall. Firefly starts over a squarish indentation; the first bolt is below a small roof, the second bolt is just below a ledge with a bit of a scoop in the back, which is followed by a steep section.


Protection 

14 bolts, chain anchors. A two-foot sling is recommended for the bolt just below the upper headwall; longer draws on some of the bolts will help mitigate rope drag.



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DK showing how much exposure there is on <a href='/v/firefly/108326384'>Firefly</a>.
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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Arguably the best 5.10c in the canyon.

By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great route. My favorite 10 I've done in AF. I thought that the anchors would make more sense moved about 3 feet left. The last part of the route calls for some sketchy traversing on holds that are ready to blow (and did several times!). Felt a little out of character from the rest of the route.