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Firefingers 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chales Cole and Steve Grossman
Page Views: 2,658
Submitted By: Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007

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Rusty Reno working the crux of Firefingers. Photo...

Description 

Firefingers is one of the great 5.11 face routes in Yosemite. The first pitch is typical Steve Grossman -- very run out. This pitch is often wet, excusing most of us from facing the mental challenge. (I'll admit that I've never led it.) The second pitch is very continuous. It begins from the Maxine's Wall belay, and it is well-protected but very demanding. Move up in left from the Maxine's belay (crux) to an indistinct groove. Work the grove up for sixty feet to a Thank-God flake (bring a large cam for pro). Then move up and right to the belay at the top of the second pitch of Maxine's.

The route is called Firefingers because of the demands that the thin edges place on finger tips. The first time I led the route, I acquired some nasty blood blisters. Climbers familiar with the great 5.11 face routes on Suicide Rock in Southern California will enjoy this route.

Location 

The first pitch goes up right and around the corner from Maxine's Wall. The second pitch goes up and right from the chains at the top of the first pitch of Maxine's

Protection 

Be sure to bring that big cam (4"), otherwise all bolts.


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