|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 950', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Unknown Canadians Nov. 30th 2008|
|Submitted By:||Ben Folsom on Dec 1, 2008|
|Comments on Firebird||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 4, 2008
|nice work, ben and maura! i've got to make it down there soon!|
By John Peterson
Dec 7, 2008
Very nice route! Ben has been adding more so there's now plenty to do if you head up to this area.
The rap down the 2nd pitch was exactly long enough with 60m ropes.
I'd unrope at the top of P2 - there's really no need to belay P3 up or down.
Don't bother with a cam - it was way too easy to need one plus we didn't see a placement.
Really big thanks to Ben and Maura for these great routes!
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 22, 2009
Dennis Jump and I did this yesterday. Good climbing. The first 2 pitches are very fun. The problem I had was finding the start of the route!
We parked our packs directly under the route but the angle of the sun precluded seeing the bolts above. I spotted a line of bolts about 100 feet to the right and scampered up that pitch...5.6...6 bolts to a chain anchor at 100 feet. I figured that must be a new intermediate anchor or something. So I kept climbing and climbing...another 600 feet of unprotected 3rd and 4th Class to the lower summit!
After climbing to the summit, we found the register (4th ascent) and downclimbed an obvious ridge and found the top anchors. Rapped back down and climbed the correct line. At that point the bolts and line is obvious from the ground...so we dubbed our scramble to the right "Wusses Day Out"!
Anyway, great climbing Ben. I like all those bolts on the bottom 2 pitches. People are gonna show you love for them!
If you plan on climbing Firebird...don't follow that right-hand line of bolts. They're simply a one-pitch climb! Also, the rappel down the second pitch is damn long, 2 200-foot ropes barely reach. Tie knots and pay attention. We ended up rapping to the left anchors for Rumble Strip on a ledge and traversing down right to the other set...