Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ironsides
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alloy Madness S 
Chump S 
Double Hung S 
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 
High Seas S 
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 
Lump S 
Port Side T 
Repeat Offender S 
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 
Unknown Left of Port Side S 
Void Where Prohibited S 
Welcome to Dystopia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1st pitch Pontier and Pon, full route, Guerrieri and Brown.
Page Views: 1,668
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mico Alejandro making easy party of the undercling...

Description 

This is the 2nd farthest left bolted route on the Ironsides. According to the Gillett guidebook, it was originally bolted as Gypsies in the Palace, which is the 5.8 section up to the first anchors. It was finished by a later party to the top of the wall. As with the other routes on this wall, the bolts are sparse but where you need them. Bring 2 ropes or rap to the mid-anchors, approximately 150 feet total.

The first "pitch" takes you up the low angled slab until the overlap. This is slightly run out 5.8. A few small pieces can be placed to relieve stress.

Pull up onto the hanging headwall on thin holds 5.10, and fire up through the crux (10c) on underclings and crimps (height helps). I climbed this prior to the guidebook coming out and recorded it in my notes as being a little harder.

Protection 

12 bolts (optional green Alien). You can tuck a few small pieces in the bottom section.


Photos of Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck making an ultimately failed attempt at the f...
Chuck making an ultimately failed attempt at the f...
Luke at the second crux.
Luke at the second crux.
Draws hung on 1st pitch [Gypsies In The Palace 5.8...
BETA PHOTO: Draws hung on 1st pitch [Gypsies In The Palace 5.8...
Mico @ the anchors of Fire Widow/Gypsies In The Pa...
Mico @ the anchors of Fire Widow/Gypsies In The Pa...

Comments on Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a really cool sequential face climb. I think someone used to 10c sport climbing in Dream, BC, CCC, etc would find this to be a big sandbag so I decided to go out on a limb a bit and rate this a bit higher at least for me. I am also positive that some holds are missing from when this was first put up that made the sequence by the third bolt (above the 2 bolt anchor on the 8) much thinner than it used to be. Also a green Alien in a horizontal crack can make getting to the first bolt feel a bit better.

All my opinion of course. I really like this short, super steep climb:)
By Bill Farrand
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Contrary to the guidebook, I found the hardest move to be moving past the first bolt on the 5.10 section of the wall. Perhaps some flake has come off from that area? Anyway, that one move might be harder than 10c.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 28, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

10c seems fair by trad standards. We don't want to rate all areas by the (mostly) soft modern Boulder and Dream Canyon sport ratings. Do we? Much easier than Alloy Madness. Although the technical difficulty of the crux moves may be similar, the difficult climbing on Alloy Madness lasts for about 8 bolts vs 2 on Fire Widow.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 28, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The bolts on top are set back a bit from the face, so you probably don't want to TR or lower off using the rings. Rap to the ground with a 70m rope or (probably) to a ledge with a 60m and scramble off. Having the bolts set back seems annoying, but it may be a good way to reduce wear on the rings due to TR'ing or lowering.
By S. Neel
Apr 24, 2006

FYI: A 60 meter rope will reach the shelf 10ft up from the ground if your belayer is standing on the same shelf. Overall, the route is worth doing.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Really fabulous climb - I gave it a 10cd rating though, pretty minimal up top, break out those slabby skills of faith. I'm 5'9", I think the shorter you are, the more difficult it will be to lead. If I recall, there were bolts just barely within reach from the easy stances.

About the height - you can lower on a 70m and top-rope without crazy drag.