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 ADVANCED
Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Country Bumpkin T,S 
Fire Stone T 
Piss Ant, The T 
Rocco's Corner T 
Super Doo T 
Super Slab 4 You T 
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 

Fire Stone 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 23, 2005

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Joe LaBarbera standing on top of the flake getting...

Description 

Fire Stone starts up and right from Rocco's Corner about 15'. You must scramble up a little chimney to reach the face which is just right of an obvious easy crack climb called Super Doo (5.2). Climb up past first bolt through a nicely featured face. To get to the second bolt, which is quite a ways away, move up and delicately step left just below the bolt. You would hit the deck if you slipped off here. Move up to the obvious left facing flake/corner. This protects well to it's top. A thin step left off the flake onto the face is the crux with one or two thin moves up to the anchors. This is a great, fun route with two cruxes, the delicate move left before the second bolt and stepping off the flake at the top although the first is more heady than difficult.


Protection 

Two bolts plus a few additional small to medium trad gear protect this climb adequately. Anchors are double bolts. A short 3rd class scramble gets you to the very top of the cliffs. A fall scrambling would be very bad.



Photos of Fire Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Photo shows center of Upper Tier.  A great view of Rocco's Corner, the left facing corner just left of center of photo.  The white streak is White Streak (5.11), and the two bolts of Fire Stone and large flake are clearly seen to the right of the left angling crack, Super Doo (5.2).
BETA PHOTO: Photo shows center of Upper Tier. A great view of...
Paul climbing past the first bolt.  The second bolt is way up there above Paul's head!
Paul climbing past the first bolt. The second bol...
Paul on the delicate traverse left to reach second bolt.  Slipping here would not be fun!
Paul on the delicate traverse left to reach second...
To add an additional fun short ending (5.8 or so) to Fire Stone, from the belay anchors, instead of scrambling up to the top past the small tree, head straight up from the anchors over the short steep wall.  Shorter people will find this a bit harder... Oh, great mid size cams in the right of the crack protect the moves.
To add an additional fun short ending (5.8 or so) ...
Paul testing flake for gear placement.  good placements protect the layback type moves up the flake to it's top.
Paul testing flake for gear placement. good place...
Fire Stone starts at the right-most black streak and goes up to the left facing flake and up to the top of the black streak below the rock scoop above.  The only two bolts can be seen in the black streak.
Fire Stone starts at the right-most black streak a...
Paul standing on top of flake getting ready to make the thin step out onto the face.
Paul standing on top of flake getting ready to mak...
Joe LaBarbera pulling onto small smear of a hold with little for his hands.
Joe LaBarbera pulling onto small smear of a hold w...
Sallie following up the route!  All of us baking on this hot and sunny day...
Sallie following up the route! All of us baking o...
Sallie liebacking up the flake in good style.
Sallie liebacking up the flake in good style.
Comments on Fire Stone Add Comment
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did the first moves slightly different the second time I did this route. I decided to climb directly up from first bolt to second bolt on the thin face. It certainly is easier climbing up on the right but the delicate step left seemed scarier. Climbing straight up was easier than it first looked and pretty straight forward. Just as much fun the second time around!

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This route is R rated as you will deck if you fall getting to the second bolt.