Fire Point 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Dan Perry, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Mekolites on Jun 30, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loos...
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Description This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.
Climb an unprotected start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.
"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."
Location Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.
Protection What pro?
I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.
BETA PHOTO: The best part of the route. The very exposed aret...
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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010
| Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers! |
By alexanderblum
From: Flat Place, NC
May 1, 2011
| The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 6, 2011
| The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart. |
By GWB
Apr 8, 2012
| Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch. |
By s f
From: Georgia
Apr 9, 2012
| I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO. |
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