|Jam or Slam Rock
Hidden from view until almost at the base, this route on the southwest face is located in a sunny and sheltered spot which is perfect for those chilly days.
The climb is identified as a left-facing vertical corner which is jammed, liebacked and stemmed to a horizontal three-quarters of the way up. The original finish cut right in the horizontal but a newer bolted finish straightens out the line. A lot of variety is packed into this climb which makes it well worth a visit or two.
pro to 2", 2 bolts, anchors
BETA PHOTO: Jam or Slam Rock (south face), Joshua Tree NP
Tara working through the crux section.
"Fire Or Retire".
Photo by Blitzo.
A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retire".Ph...
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.
The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.
Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be.
|By Charles I.|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009
Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares.