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Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)
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Amionit TR 
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Fire or Retire T 

Fire or Retire 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Vogel and Randy McDonald, 1979 Direct Finish: C. Miller, 1999
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Tara working through the crux section.


Hidden from view until almost at the base, this route on the southwest face is located in a sunny and sheltered spot which is perfect for those chilly days.

The climb is identified as a left-facing vertical corner which is jammed, liebacked and stemmed to a horizontal three-quarters of the way up. The original finish cut right in the horizontal but a newer bolted finish straightens out the line. A lot of variety is packed into this climb which makes it well worth a visit or two.


pro to 2", 2 bolts, anchors

Photos of Fire or Retire Slideshow Add Photo
"Fire or Retire". Photo by Blitzo.
"Fire or Retire". Photo by Blitzo.
A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retir...
A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retir...

Comments on Fire or Retire Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.

The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.

Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009

Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares.
By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Dec 31, 2014

as of December 28, 2014 the two bolt anchor is, in my opinion, only a one bolt anchor. the second bolt/hangar is ancient, super rusty, and spins freely
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