|Motherlode Rock - East Face
The climb begins with a short, vertical section with side pulls and edges before gaining a high-angle, somewhat gritty slab reminiscent of Joshua Tree. The crux comes at the third bolt and involves a balancy high-step to better holds. The anchor is located just below a large dike to prevent wear on ropes when lowering, but for the full experience continue to the top to another set of anchors.
This was one of the first routes done on the wall, and was originally done with a #3 RP (just before the present 3rd bolt), two bolts (the third and fourth) and no anchors; it was later retrobolted to make it more popular and fun.
This is the left-most climb on the east face and lies 15' around and right from Wildrose and just left of Fools Gold, a juggy crack system.
4 bolts, chain anchor
Chris O leading on a wonderful Fall afternoon with...
Indira following. The first bolt as you can see is...
Jason leading. He made it look real easy.
Jason leading. The last 2 bolts were balancy.
BETA PHOTO: Fire in the Hole (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Sep 7, 2009
Pumpy start through the first bolt, that eases off on the upper slab section. I thought the crux was at the 4th bolt and involves stepping high with small edge hand holds.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011
This climb is fun! Not ready to lead it as the first bolt is pretty high up for me. Climbed it on top rope and it was fun. The first bolt clipping is definitely dicey. I found the last 2 bolts up top got edgy and balancy. FUN!!
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Any of you Stoney top ropers out there who fancy to trying a 5.10 lead this would work well for you - it's very similar to say Pink Drips, but with more friction.