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This pitch would be a must do almost anywhere else although it does not justify its name.
The crux is at the start, reaching past a blank section with the only pro a small nut at your shins. Note that at a height of around 5' 5" this move would become much harder. Above this work the double cracks (wide hands on R, wide fingers on L) with a couple of stances encountering a hard move where the cracks converge.
The pitch can be done with just the right crack at about 10+.
A little bit to the left of Hot Fun Sunday, this climb is close to the left edge of the cliff as viewed from the parking area that serves Fin and Broken Tooth.
#2 Rock, 2 ea .5 - 3 Camalot, long sling, 2 quick draws.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
The start is reachy and a little bold. If you are shorter than 5.7 you might have a real hard time making the reach. You can place a good .75 camalot and red C3 to protect the start but it is still interesting.
Above you can take the wide crack (L) or the fingers on the R. I recommend placing red / gray alien at the end of the fingers on the right instead of a wide peice back in the serrated OW. Fingers on the R are cool and a little harder.
Mar 23, 2010
The pillar that forms the wider crack on the left of this climb is loosening. I noticed it wobbling as I manteled on top of it at the end of the splitters.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Crux at the bottom- but not that hard. Protects OK, but check the pro out well, then go. Nice clean rock and fun climbing. If you are under average height, you might find it hard, but for long armed people who can make the span foom the cling to the lock, it is probably 10-.