Fins and Needles
||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||with aid: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1986 FFA: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna 10/2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,067|
|Submitted By: ||christ on Oct 30, 2007|
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Overhanging finger and hand crack in a narrowing dihedral. There are no individual hard moves, but it's very steep and sustained the whole way. This is a great route with good rock, but it needs to be climbed a few more times to clean up a little. Pumpy! Note: FFA was done with pre-placed gear - this route still awaits a pure, ground up ascent while placing the gear.
From the Dorsal Fin/Dark Horse area, traverse around the Fin to the east. Climb a long scrambly pitch up and right, starting with a chicken head crack, and finishing with some low angle slab climbing on a ramp. Belay at the end of this ramp, and the crack will be obvious.
Set of TCUs, double set of cams from a .3 C4 to a #2 C4. Lower/rap from a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the dihedral.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2007
Christ, if you can walk on water, climbing 5.12 shouldn't be a big deal... move on to some really cool things please, you're the son of god for Christ's sake.