In the Guide, this climbed is called "Unnamed", but we thought it was way to good to go unnamed, so we named it. If you disagree, let us know and we'll change it back.
Start chimneying between the main face and a short block along a thin finger crack until you can stand on the block. Then, gain a long, winding flake that creates a crack that goes from hands to fist, through a blocky off-width and back to small hands to finish. There's a thin, .3 Camalot sized, finger crack just left of the main crack. Move through a tight squeezing, long reaching, hands roof to a two bolt anchor.
Directly right of No Beggin'. There is a small plaque that reads "5.10" at the bottom.
Camalots; triples .3s, doubles 1,2,3, singles of .5,.75
Metolious TCU; yellow, blue
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Despite some loose rock in the middle, this is a quality route. The perfect hands v-slot roof finish has great exposure and interesting movement. We belayed with a 70m rope no problem. A 60 won't reach the ground, but might reach the top of the first pillar.
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 9, 2013
Incredibly varied. Not a typical IC splitter. I really liked this climb.