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A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall. Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks. This route is every bit as good as Beckey's.
3 pins on the route, slung tree at the top. Bring more in case there are none. Small to medium gear. Cams seemed useful for some of the early pieces. Not as runout as I thought it would be. Watch the pins, watch the flakes with your cams. They won't last forever.
|Comments on Fingertrip Variation
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Oct 10, 2006
Sews up nicely, I didn't think it was even PG-13. There is some weeping on the route after wet weather that makes for a headier lead. Bring lots of long runners to help reduce rope drag if you climb this in one pitch.
|By glen kaplan|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2006
I actually think this is better than Beckey's...
Awesome as one pitch, then do Bam Bam for a great 2 pitch...
Best to have 2 ropes, then at least you can rap from the top of Fingertip all the way to the ground...
I didn't really think it was PG13 either...maybe those first pieces ain't as good as I think they are--because of expanding--but the moves are actually really bomber, just big.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
Definitely one of the best at the Gate when done as one long pitch. Its not really run out but falling before getting a second piece after leaving the Becky could be a nasty one back onto the slab.
For descent, we belay the 2nd down (TRed) to the Beckey Routes chain anchors and then the leader downclimbs that easy 20' section on belay.
Oct 23, 2008
Just rap of of the beckys anchors.
There was a convenience anchor added by the first bolt on pebbles by s000meone and after public outcry it was removed.
Why dont we just leave it the way it has been for years.
Less drilling more climbing!!!
One vote for fuck no!
Oct 25, 2008
And if you dont have a 70m then take two ropes.
After all this is LCC. Right???
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Oct 25, 2008
I agree that a bolted rap station is better than killing a tree. The current climbing ethic seems to lean more towards an "everyone get home safe" motto.
I understand the trad ethic of leave no trace and don't place bolts if you don't have to (I started climbing at Suicide and Tahquitz in California). But on these really popular, easily accessible, routes I have no beef at all with good, solid belay/rap anchors.
Oct 27, 2008
The problem is that this kind of thing has become common practice like Craig said.
It is still adding bolts to a route that has never had them.
Just because some jack ass, back in the day bought a drill and added bolts to other routes does not make it okay.
Just my two cents
You guys do what you like.
Oct 27, 2008
Me too bro.
No big deal.
From: Small Lake, UT
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.8+ PG13
The upper piton is getting a bit wobbly. Not really a concern since it can be backed up with a .5 but it might come out soon with a bit of a tug. Pound it back in place if you pull it, it brings me great joy to clip these things.
And pull gently on the lower flakes, coming back down on the slab with a 200lbs section of the route would suck!
The tree anchor has not been replaced and the tree is in better shape than a lot of others I've rapped from. Oh well, it forces you to climb one of the slabs and do 3 raps if you only have 1 rope. There's an interesting new rap station halfway down pebbles in the dihedral, a huge choke slung with sections of what seems to be 12mm line. Funneh.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 12, 2011
I would like to add that some of the pins are shaky on the sporty section of the climb. The first pin can be backed up with a large stopper, and the last has a #1 camalot placement about 5 ft below it. This means if you blow the easy moves stepping into the lieback you're going to have a bad time.