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Just after the 5.3 lieback... which in my opinion ...
From Lunch Rock, walk right until the rock starts to curve sharply around to your right. Start the climb by going up a third class gully to a tree below an overhang. Climb the tree and exit left around the overhang, and then continue up easy ground to the top of a shrubby area and belay. An obvious right-facing lieback (5.3) goes up to a broken area and an optional belay. Step around left to the obvious fingertrip traverse which gives the route its name. Continue up and left along this crack to easier ground. Broken 4th class climbing takes you up to Lunch Ledge. The easiest way to the top from here is to move up over some three foot steps. Continue up and right along an obvious gully to the shoulder of the rock.
The 3rd/4th class at the start is kinda spicy. @SE...
BETA PHOTO: At the base.
I thought I was on the 3rd pitch but it was just o...
Russell usually free solo's this route. He was my ...
Sitting comfortably at the lunch ledge.
Christy leading the tree start.
Debbie just after stepping off the tree onto the f...
BETA PHOTO: Here's a pic of the 5.3 layback.
BETA PHOTO: The actual fingertip traverse section, the money p...
|Comments on Fingertip Traverse
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007
Easier than Fingertrip. But nowhere near as classic. I suppose if you want a multi-pitch experience with no difficulty at all, this route is ok. But there are better routes.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 22, 2009
I could disagree more with cisco. Mathematically, it's impossible. As a beginner's climb, I can think of few better routes, with the possible exception of, say, the East Face of the Third Flatiron. From the step across out of the tree on the first pitch, the exposed lieback on pitch 2, the even more exposed fingertip traverse on pitch 3, it's just all too good. Do it and you'll see.
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 10, 2009
I would think that many would want to rope up for the "third class gully". It seem more like fourth class to me. If you have a beginner in tow, I wouldn't ask him or her to solo that gully.
We finished the traverse pitch by continuing up and left to a large tree located above and right of lunch ledge. From here we continued up Angel's Fright and finished with the slab at the top. A total of four pitches.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 16, 2010
watch out for the ant tree
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 3, 2011
While most of the climbing here is easy, I would not rate Fingertip Traverse a perfect beginners climb. (See The Trough for perfect beginners climb).
If you have a super noobie, I think they might find the exposure of the fingertip traverse combined with insecure feet and thin fingers quite spicy. Not terribly difficult, per se, but maybe not a confidence builder, especially with swing potential in the event of a fall.
Don't let the 5.3 rating fool you into thinking this is an easy walk up. Climbing the lieback requires some skill in technique for a move or two that might pose problems for some super noobs.
For a rating, I would give this climb a 5.5 based on the lieback and the traverse. Definately harder than anything on the Trough. Plus, you still have to top out coming off of Lunch Ledge, which offers runout 5.4 slab, delicate 5.6 tips/lieback, or I think there is (?) 5.0 slab up there.
Anyway, an okay climb.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jul 17, 2011
Combined with the first pitch of "Fingertrip" this is one of my all-time favorite routes. A great beginner climb and a great climb for a mellow cruiser day.
The first time I climbed it I had too much rope drag at the start of the slab on the last pitch. I built a belay off the little tree (yikes) then belayed up my girlfriend. When she got to the tree and saw that the climbed ended just up the slab, she let the expletives fly right at me. But, she must've had fun since she's now my wife.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 12, 2011
Did this route on 8.11.11 w/ a local climber, Russell Romero. This was my first multi-pitch trad lead. It was definitely fun! On the 2nd pitch, climbing up on the tree to the rock was pretty interesting!
Took my first lead trad fall on the 3rd pitch where there's a lie back section. BD #2 is what I fell on! It was definitely a great section.
On the actual traverse, since I am not used to being that exposed and high up, I had to really get out off my head to do the traverse. Thankfully Russell was very patient w/ me and I did it clean! Placed 3 pro's during the traverse. WHEW!
The descent was more spicier than the actual climb. Russell took me to a different longer route and still nerve wracking. Guess I will have to keep going back up there to get use to it :)
Overall, it was definitely a fun climb!
|By Richard Shore|
Sep 23, 2011
Classic as it gets for the grade. Add some extra spice by doing the 5.4 slab finish off Lunch Ledge.
|By Tristan B|
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 24, 2011
We did this route today. My parnter couldn't get my yellow master cam out from a spot in the middle of the traverse. If you get it, congrats on the booty and it's a pretty new cam with no falls so you can trust it.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 12, 2012
Love this route. Did it again on 7.10.12 w/ a buddy that has never been to Tahquitz. Finished the last pitch with the fingertip lieback section. Fist time me leading that section. Love it!!! Super fun day!