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 ADVANCED
DMZ
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berlin Wall S 
Breaking the Law S 
Cobbler's Delight T 
Fingertip Ledge of Contentment S 
Holocaust S 
Transcendence S 

Fingertip Ledge of Contentment 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Focardi, Sean Greer: 1990
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: john durr on Jun 1, 2010

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Description 

Fun climbing, a brief but hard to figure out slab crux leads to a juggy head wall.

The rock on the first 25 feet isn't the best, but the climbing is good and pretty easy in this section. There is a bolt right there at the crux where a couple of good horizontal hand holds are frustratingly out of reach just when the foot holds disappear. A novel approach will make the crux 5.10c, don't get stumped.

Location 

Bolted slab climb just right of Holocaust. Morning sun.

Protection 

8 bolts to chains, it is a little bit runout past the 8th bolt, but the holds are huge jugs, just stay cool. A TCU or small cam could be placed here too.


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