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This is the finger crack just to the right of the dihedral.
This is the obvious finger crack to the immediate right of the gully.
It can be led but most people just top rope.
|By Christopher Michaelson|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 15, 2009
The picture shown is actually after/higher than the crux, where the route goes from 5.6 to about 5.7. The crux is about halfway up the route (see my comments on the 5.7) and is a good 5.9 finger crack ... great for laybacking. You WILL get pumped, as it's really slick rock!
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 27, 2011
Don't know why more people don't lead this- great gear. Fun climb. 5.6 at Josh, if that
Jun 21, 2012
Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top.
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Protection for Fingers is the same as Dihedral. Three anchors placed on the topside of the top boulder. You'll need something to extend about 2-3ft. to use these anchors. You can easily reach them via a hike around the back right side of the waterfall.