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 ADVANCED
Ortega Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dihedral T,TR 
Falls, Right T,TR 
Fingers T,TR 
Horn T,TR 
Polished T,TR 
Red-tailed S 
Splitter T,TR 
Thing One T,TR 
Thing Two T,TR 

Fingers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: N/A
Page Views: 1,925
Submitted By: Nate "Mustang" Johnson on Aug 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: 5.7 is on the left, 5.9 is on the right

Description 

This is the finger crack just to the right of the dihedral.

Location 

This is the obvious finger crack to the immediate right of the gully.

Protection 

It can be led but most people just top rope.


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By Christopher Michaelson
Oct 15, 2009

The picture shown is actually after/higher than the crux, where the route goes from 5.6 to about 5.7. The crux is about halfway up the route (see my comments on the 5.7) and is a good 5.9 finger crack ... great for laybacking. You WILL get pumped, as it's really slick rock!
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2011

Don't know why more people don't lead this- great gear. Fun climb. 5.6 at Josh, if that
By tinyonion
Jun 21, 2012

Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top.
By sc00ter5
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Protection for Fingers is the same as Dihedral. Three anchors placed on the topside of the top boulder. You'll need something to extend about 2-3ft. to use these anchors. You can easily reach them via a hike around the back right side of the waterfall.