This short, right leaning lieback is the climb immediatly right of Coyne Crack. It starts out fingers and gets progressively smaller as you get higher. The tactic is definitely climb fast, the rests really suck. About 1/3 height is a foothold to place gear off, but doesn't really give you a good rest. Continue climbing above and place yellow aliens from strenuous liebacks before the crack pinches down to tips. You could fit in a blue alien up high, but its really strenuous to place. Just before the crux, the final moves trying to stand up to the anchor, is a really poor, wrongly sloping foothold to maybe rest or place pro on, but it feels super tenuous. The crux move involves using spaced out fingerlocks and a sloping ledge to mantel on. After just reading what I wrote, I would say its not quite as hairy as I made it sound, just remember to keep your feet really high in opposition and move fast.
One .75 camalot in a pod down low, two .5 camalots, one or two yellow aliens, and then possibly one green alien, and one blue alien, if you can stop and place them.
Me leading Fingers In A Light socket on Thanksgivi...
Gary Savage on Fingers.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a look at Fingures in a Lightsocket.
Jeremy Freeman on 'Fingers in a Lightsocket' 5.11+
Nearing the crux.
Debating whether or not to place-and-go, or take m...
In a lightsocket
Going for the crux. Yes, I removed my shirt for th...
|By Paul Nelson|
Aug 23, 2002
I've seen two dudes pull gear on this route. Due to its increasingly strenuous and desperate nature as one proceeds upwards, the last couple of placements that protect the crux moves are often not the best. My friend pulled two yellow Metolius TCUs after he messed up the final mantle, as did another guy (can't remember his name... he was Canadian though), who completely inverted his cam. Neither of them decked, but still be careful on this route.
|By Josh Beck|
May 13, 2003
I agree that one should be careful, but I fell about 4 times in the last 15 feet of this route, including onto a shallow purple TCU and all my gear held, FWIW... I suck at liebacks and this thing is burly to protect for sure.
|By Andy Johnson|
Aug 26, 2003
Here is a little beta on the pro. I have whipper tested this setup on several occasions with a fall from the mantel and I have never had a problem. Save two green aliens for the top of the climb. When you are at the chopped bolt(about ten feet from the top), place both aliens about a foot apart. Next, head for the top. You will be looking at a fairly large fall, but if you don't mind runouts then this is a good way to go. Also, if you do this then you don't have to try to stop and place pro in the final pumpy section.
|By Max Schon|
May 7, 2004
I'd agree with the last comment about placing two aliens and then gunning for it. I wouldn't call it runout, though. You're only about five feet(at most) above your last piece. The first time I got on this route I whipped at the crux; the piece held just fine. Pieces pulling are more often then not pilot error.
|By Gary Savage|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 6, 2007
If you stay relaxed there is a stem rest right before the final crux. You can easily place a couple of small cams (I think they were #2 metolius size) and get a good shake before doing the last couple of moves.
From: Queen Creek AZ
Oct 25, 2007
I was going for it durring a blizzard in 05. I'll never foget it. No one was there, it was awesome but cold. I placed a .4 BD at the good foot on the left, about 20' up, and then ran it out. I got to where you move out to the face hold out right a good 15' past my last piece. I mean i was feeling good. Just as I reached out right my foot poped sending me flying face down looking at my belayer who had one hand on the rope and one hand in the air to catch me. I could not believe I was still falling. I thought forsure I should have stopped. I slammed the wall getting the worst blue balls and flipped upside down. I streched out my hand and was almost able to tuch the ground. I tryed to get back on but got half way up and my legs would not calm down. that was a ride I'll NAVER forget.
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Dec 12, 2007
The top two moves before getting established are really hard for us with fat fingers. Fell here on my only attempt and could barely make it to the anchors after resting.
|By Scott W|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 14, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chill route and not hard to protect if you know what size cams your fingers are in, can rest right before the end, but the end definantly contains a 5.11+ move...the only route in the creek I've done that isn't horribly soft for the grade. Used only yellow alien/tcu and purple camalots...not sure what the craziness of the poster above is saying about purple tcu...just crazy. Maybe you could put in green aliens/blue tcu, but I imagine the gear wouldn't be ideal.
Dec 4, 2008
"the end definantly contains a 5.11+ move...the only route in the creek I've done that isn't horribly soft for the grade."
What and where are these soft graded routes? I have never encountered a climb at the creek that was not a sandbag. No complaints with the grades at all, but in my experience (40-50 routes or so), IC is very stout on grades. 5.10 can be off fists and make you bleed and thrash. 5.11 is usually tight hands or stacks- pumpy and hard to protect. I think the grades at IC are hard even compared to Eldo, Yosemite and Seneca Rocks.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2008
He's just saying he's a better crack climber than face climber... don't sweat it. I always think roof-climbs are over-graded (soft). Until I remember I've got lots of power but bad footwork. Then I realize it's just me.
Jun 6, 2009
I recall getting solid small cams (green or blue aliens? I can't remember) right before the face climbing at the end. Lots of fun for such a short route. As for the above comments, I guess nothing is ever "hard enough" when your ego problems are calling the shots. Thank goodness we have the internet where we can wear our mediocre attitudes on our sleeves.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I agree with Scott, the locks are bomber and there is no need for small gear at the top. Just place your gear in the pods that your jamming. I placed a yellow and gray alien at the very top and they were both great placements. A .3 Camalot or Green Alien is the smallest gear you need.
|By Tony Mayse|
Nov 29, 2011
I was just out a few days ago.
My gear was .50 Camalot at the start, 1.0 Camalot at the pod just below the first edge/rest, then gray Aliens the entire way. I fell before the last rest (flamed out). From the stem rest at the top I placed a gray alien then went to the top, probably looking at a 20 footer if you blow the crux but the gray Aliens are bomber.
|By Blake Allen Green|
Nov 30, 2011
Just to second the early comments, I've ripped gear on this route too. All the gear is good, no matter which sizes you use, just make sure they're not shallow and at the edge of the crack. It's pretty easy to see a dozen or more scars where people have pulled pieces. I used 2 .5's and 3 yellow/.4's for the route.
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No, all the gear at the top is not good. From so many folks hanging on it, the crack is actually becoming bigger on the INSIDE ! thus, the cam goes in but bells out on the inside, resulting in gear pulling out when fallen upon. AND ! don't get your leg behind the rope as you desperately layback idiots...how many times have we seen stupid laybackers with the rope between their legs ?? Too many...